Thursday, February 26, 2015

Making a water in silicone serum with Lotioncrafter Serum SE

I love silicones! I think they are the silkiest feeling ingredients we can find, so I've always wanted to make a silicone serum like the No 7 one my mom uses or the Oil of Olay one my bestie likes so much. I found this ingredient at Lotioncrafter - Lotioncrafter Serum SE* - and thought I'd try it!

What is it?"Lotioncrafter Serum SE is a proprietary blend of self emulsifying silicone fluids designed to make the creation of water-in-silicone emulsions (or serums) simple. Along with Lotioncrafter Serum SE, serums are created and stabilized using a sodium chloride/sodium citrate buffer. This reduces interfacial tension and improves freeze-thaw stability, as does the addition of glycerin and/or glycols (dipropylene, propylene or butylene glycol). These also contribute to increased preservative efficacy."

So it's an emulsifier that has been designed to bring water and silicone together in a serum format. Why can't we just use Incroquat BTMS-50 to make a facial thingie with silicones? We could, but then we'd be making a lotion, not a serum. This creates more of a gel than a lotion, although it isn't clear.

This is a great way to get loads of cosmeceuticals or actives into your product, and it's fantastic to use underneath make-up. In fact, if you're looking to make an under make-up primer, this is a great product!

You'll want to add a sodium chloride (salt) and sodium citrate buffer to it, so don't forget to order the latter when you order this emulsifier. Oh, and get yourself some propylene glycol as well. I've tried it with 10% glycerin, and it was a bit sticky for my tastes!

How do we use it? You can get all your ingredients together and follow the instructions. The down side is that you have to mix it for 10 to 15 minutes with a hand mixer, so if you have a stand mixer, all the better! (Trust me, your arm will get tired!) It is made cold with no heating and holding, so make sure you are using distilled water and avoid using a lot of botanical ingredients to preserve it well.

I'm linking to a few sample recipes before I share what I've made with you tomorrow. The process is fairly similar for each one, so if you want to go nuts and make one tonight, just follow the easy to use instructions Jen from Lotioncrafter has included in this basic water in silicone serum recipe!

Soothing & Clarifying Facial Serum (on Lotioncrafter's site)
Time Defy Facial Serum (on Lotioncrafter's site)

*Please note, I have not been paid or compensated in any way to write about this ingredient. I just really liked it! 


Linda Mulhall said...

I am addicted to their Time Defy Facial Serum - I have made 4 batches so far (my friends are so lucky because I give it to them as gifts)

M Konnerth said...

Hi Susie,
Thanks for introducing us to another cool ingredient!
I noticed the one recipe has Allantoin and Panthenol. I have them in their powdered form.
I'm guessing I would remove some of the water amount, dilute them, cool them and then continue?
Thank you! Merilyn

Paige B said...

You said that the glycerin was sticky, but are sodium lactate or sodium PCA viable alternatives to propylene glycol or glycerin? What about hydrovance? I happen to have those three and don't want to order yet another humectant if I don't have to.

robyn m said...

Can you please tell me the pH of this basic serum? That is if you've tested it.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Linda! That's a great recipe, eh?

Hi Merilyn! I generally remove a titch of water to dissolve my ingredients, then add them back to the mix.

Hi Paige! My understanding is that the propylene glycol or glycerin offers certain properties to the chemistry of this product that other humectants that aren't polyols don't. So you aren't using them only as humectants in this recipe but to "reduce the interfacial tension and improve stability".

Hi Robyn! I didn't test it! I'll do that this weekend and get back to you!

Angela said...

This product intrigues me since silicone serums are the base of so many foundations. Any idea if this would work with a fair bit of mica and titanium dioxide added for colour?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Angela! Why don't you try it and see if it works? Let us know what happens!

Kim Vermeiren said...

Any idea where you can get a product which can create this for the europeans amongst us?
shipping and import fees dont really go easy on you...
Still this looks very awesome and I'd really like to make my own.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kim! Check out the European suppliers' post in the FAQ to see if anyone sells it. I'm sorry, but I don't know much about European suppliers, so I have to count on my readers there to share their thoughts!

Kim Vermeiren said...

On that note, you may want to include aroma-zone on that list ( not being paid by them, fyi).
It is a french website but i usually go there through google translate.
They're not exactly cheap but they sell a lot of lotion(shampoo, conditioner, makeup,...) goodies which are usually waaay off for us europeans.

Could an oil free serum be made using cera belina and polysorbate 20/80 ( i keep forgeting which one is the strongest emulsifier)
Or does cera belina only work for oils? What else could be used to make water phase ingredients turn into a serum?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Kim! Feel free to visit the post and add the link. I think it is more valuable coming from someone who has purchased from them and can reflect on a personal experience than for me to add to it.

Cera belina only works for oils. You could try various gums to thicken a water based serum. Or, if you're using oils, you could use an emulsifier to make a lotion. I'm afraid it's hard to suggest ingredients when I don't know the recipe, so those are the best I can offer.

Kim Vermeiren said...

I ment the pdf with the european suppliers ( i assume that's where people would look first), it would be nice if we could add to. Some suppliers are also out of bussiness.

I didnt have a recipe but I've been puzzling a bit, still more then a few pieces missing.
Some months ago I received a couple of samples off clinique's thirst relief. I really it.
It was very light, spreads very very well, it was gone in a matter of moments but a nice skin feel remained.
Ever since I tried it I wondered how it was made, it was so "gell" like but then again it wasn't (not making sense, I know)

This is what I've been puzzling on:
Heated phase:
1,5% xanthan gum (based on
% polysorbate 80
15% aloe vera
15% witch hazel
% distilled water
2% IPM
3% glycerin

Cooldown phase:
0,5% germall plus
0,5% propolis extract
3% cyclomethicone
3% dimethicone
2% panthenol
2% rice protein
2% milk protein
2% honeyquat
4% niacinamide
5% vegemoist

I'm not sure if polysorbate is the right choice for this, nor am I sure about the amount needed...
Would IPM still help your skin soak up the ingredients or does it only help when the product holds oils?
I wonder if the heated phase will absorb the cd phase when it has cooled down and become gell-y.

HG moisturizer said...

Hi Susan!
Hope you've been doing better >_<

I know this is an old post but is the regular table salt we get from the grocery store fine to use with lotioncrafter serum SE?

I thought it was fine but then I checked the salt i have at home and it has another ingredient other than "salt" (and the call the product "pure salt")

The salt I have at home has "sodium silicoaluminate" in it (anti caking additive?)
I'm not sure if I should use it...

HG moisturizer said...

Oh, actually Susan I think I'm going to email Jen and see what she says so you can ignore my question! luckily old posts are moderated so it's not automatically posted lol.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

This isn't an old post. A year isn't old! Plus, as I say repeatedly all over the blog, I see comments regardless of age.

Are you asking if you can use table salt for the sodium chloride? Yes. It's salt. If you prefer to use one without a caking agent, feel free to do so, but it won't change the chemistry in the product.

HG moisturizer said...

Oops! I kinda just assumed cause of the "14 days old" comments moderation thing lol.

Anyway, thanks for letting me know so soon!
I'll probably just use salt without the anti-caking agent.

Take care~
- Lane