Unfortunately, adding a surfactant to something this oil soluble ingredient heavy won't do much. If you want a foaming shaving product, you could try making a syndet shampoo bar with a lot of BTMS-50 and oils added to it to make it more moisturizing and glidy. In all honesty, I don't think a modified shampoo bar will offer the glide and moisturizing you get from a conditioner bar, but it's worth a try!
how can you tell if a recipe is good?, Melanie asks: Why not make toothpaste?
There are a few reasons. The first and main one is that I don't have any preservatives that work for preserving food stuffs. I would be very wary about making anything that couldn't be preserved well. The second reason is that it seems like a lot of work for something that is done very well by someone else. (I feel this way about CP soap. I am happy to spend good money on something done very well by someone else!) The third reason is that I don't have time to make what I need now - I can't add anything else to the mix!
In this post, Intense conditioners, Melanie asks: I'm in the middle of reading your amazing e-book Formulating Facial Products, got distracted and somehow landed on this post! I'm going to make this deep conditioner, and was wondering if I could substitute Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate) for the Incroquat CR at the same percentage? Would that work?
Conditioners have emulsifiers in them, but they are emulsifiers that are positively charged or cationic emulsifiers. Olivem 1000 is a non-ionic or neutrally charged emulsifier. As such, they won't offer the conditioning that a positively charged or cationic emulsifier will offer because adsorption and substantivity - the ability of the cationic quaternary compound to form a light layer on your hair to prevent friction and static - require that positive charge. Be wary when using proteins with Olivem 1000 - it apparently doesn't like them.
Having said this, there are people who swear by non-ionic emulsifiers in their conditioners, so you can give it a try and see what you think. As usual, make a small batch - 100 grams to 200 grams - and see if you like it.
If you don't have something like Incroquat CR, you can substitute more Incroquat BTMS-50 or just leave it out and substitute more water to make up 100%.
Join me tomorrow for more fun with cosmetic chemistry as we take a look at biphasic make-up removers.
And hey, I've just realized that all of these questions are by the same person!