Saturday, December 6, 2014

Weekend Wonderings: Can I add a surfactant to a shaving bar? Can I use Olivem 1000 in a conditioner? And why don't you make toothpaste?

In this post, Conditioners become shave bars, Melanie asks: This shaving bar is the best!For the first time in my life my legs don't hurt all day after shaving! No razor burn! My son is a barber and he used it to shave his friend's head with a straight razor and it worked great. His only complaint is that he likes a lot of thick foam which this has none. I wonder-could I add a powdered surfactant and make it more lathery?

Unfortunately, adding a surfactant to something this oil soluble ingredient heavy won't do much. If you want a foaming shaving product, you could try making a syndet shampoo bar with a lot of BTMS-50 and oils added to it to make it more moisturizing and glidy. In all honesty, I don't think a modified shampoo bar will offer the glide and moisturizing you get from a conditioner bar, but it's worth a try!

In this post, how can you tell if a recipe is good?, Melanie asks: Why not make toothpaste?

There are a few reasons. The first and main one is that I don't have any preservatives that work for preserving food stuffs. I would be very wary about making anything that couldn't be preserved well. The second reason is that it seems like a lot of work for something that is done very well by someone else. (I feel this way about CP soap. I am happy to spend good money on something done very well by someone else!) The third reason is that I don't have time to make what I need now - I can't add anything else to the mix! 

In this post, Intense conditioners, Melanie asks: I'm in the middle of reading your amazing e-book Formulating Facial Products, got distracted and somehow landed on this post! I'm going to make this deep conditioner, and was wondering if I could substitute Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate) for the Incroquat CR at the same percentage? Would that work

Conditioners have emulsifiers in them, but they are emulsifiers that are positively charged or cationic emulsifiers. Olivem 1000 is a non-ionic or neutrally charged emulsifier. As such, they won't offer the conditioning that a positively charged or cationic emulsifier will offer because adsorption and substantivity - the ability of the cationic quaternary compound to form a light layer on your hair to prevent friction and static - require that positive charge. Be wary when using proteins with Olivem 1000 - it apparently doesn't like them. 

Having said this, there are people who swear by non-ionic emulsifiers in their conditioners, so you can give it a try and see what you think. As usual, make a small batch - 100 grams to 200 grams - and see if you like it. 

If you don't have something like Incroquat CR, you can substitute more Incroquat BTMS-50 or just leave it out and substitute more water to make up 100%. 

Join me tomorrow for more fun with cosmetic chemistry as we take a look at biphasic make-up removers. 

And hey, I've just realized that all of these questions are by the same person! 

5 comments:

Lila Das Gupta said...

Hi Susan,
My comment is a general one, just to say how much I love your blog! I find it such a great source of inspiration and information. Many a happy Sunday browsing through and making products as a result of ideas I've got from you.
Keep up the good work and wishing you all the best for the coming year.

Melanie said...

Lol! All of those questions were from me except one! The last one was from another Melanie! Thank you for the answers!

Melanie said...

The reason I wanted to make toothpaste is that i'm allergic to sulfa so toothpaste with sodium laurel sulfate makes me get canker sores. Also our well water has too much natural fluoride so i can't use toothpaste with fluoride in it. I saw the lush toothy tabs which are anhydrous and thought maybe I could copy them and save a bundle. The only toothpaste I can find without sls and fluoride is $7 a tube!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I had someone else write to me about the toothy tabs, so I looked them up - find them here at Lush - and I find it interesting they list saccharin as natural! What?

Melanie Stock said...

The other Melanie here (lol)! Thanks for answering my question, very helpful. My next question...do you have any posts regarding ingredients that are masked fragrances? Tried searching because I figured you would, but couldn't find anything. I looove the scent of a moisturizer/spf I have, and for the life of me can't identify which ingredient is responsible for the sweet fruity smell it has! I feel like I googled every ingredient in the listing and know it must be hiding, especially since the line is "artificial fragrance free". Can you help me out? I can only pin it to the apple stem cell or the Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, but can't find anything on them giving off such a fragrance.

Inactive ingredients: AQUA, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE, ISODECYL NEOPENTANOATE, ERYTHRITOL, LECITHIN, ARABIDOPSIS THALIANA EXTRACT, DIMETHICONE, BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER, MALUS DOMESTICA FRUIT CELL CULTURE EXTRACT, CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE/PEG-10/15 CROSSPOLYMER, SODIUM, ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/METHACRYLAMIDOLAURIC ACID COPOLYMER, CAPRYLYL METHICONE, POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE, PHENOXYETHANOL, CETEARYL DIMETHICONE, POLYISOBUTENE, TRIETHOXYSILYLETHYL POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL HEXYL DIMETHICONE, XANTHAN GUM, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, PANTHENOL, POLYSORBATE 20, DISODIUM EDTA, SODIUM HYALURONATE, PEG-8/SMDI COPOLYMER, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, POTASSIUM SORBATE, HOMARINE HCL, MICROCOCCUS LYSATE, PLANKTON EXTRACT, ERGOTHIONEINE.