Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Ingredient: Lupine amino acids

I received some lupine amino acids from the Formulator Sample Shop*, so I thought I'd play around with them for a bit. But you know me...I can't just use something, I have to research it, so let's take a look at this ingredient!

Lupine amino acids are - wait for it - amino acids from white lupine plants, the seeds of which are a kind of legume. This is important as there have been some notes about reactions by people who have a peanut allergy. Better to stay away from this protein or amino acid if you have any concerns.

It can help reduce transepidermal water loss by film forming, and it may be able to penetrate your skin to moisturize from within the stratum corneum. (Their molecular weight is 300 to 1200 daltons, and compounds of 500 daltons or less can penetrate your skin.) It definitely film forms on your skin, like the other proteins.

Lupine amino acids are used the way we would use any hydrolyzed protein - add them to the heated water phase of your product at 1% to 10%. They are water and ethanol soluble, but not oil soluble.

I have found the lupine amino acids are drier, silkier, and more powdery feeling than some of the other proteins I've used. When I compared it to hydrolyzed oat protein, the lupine amino acids felt less sticky. When I compared it to the pisum sativum peptides, it felt more powdery. I've tried lupine amino acids in both hair care and skin care products and liked them in both applications. They felt nice in the toner I made with them - as I noted, it felt a little less sticky than the usual version with oat protein.

Join me over the next few days as we make things with lupine amino acids!

I have spent just about the entire time I've been writing this post singing "Dennis Moore, Dennis Moore, riding through the night. Soon every lupin in the land will be in his mighty hand..."If you want to know why I'm doing this, click here for the YouTube video. 

Cosmetic Ingredient Review safety assessment (blue)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review safety assessment (green)
The 500 dalton rule for skin penetration of chemical compounds

*As a note, the Formulator Sample Shop has very kindly given me many free ingredients. I am not compensated for writing about them or using them in my products, and any opinions I offer are my own!


Anna said...

Hi Susan,

I am one of those who don´t use hydrolyzed proteins because of how they smell.

Does Lupine amino acids smell better?

Thanks for a great blog!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anna. I haven't noticed a smell. I notice one with silk proteins and oat, but not with lupine.

Anna said...

Thank you, thank you! Then I´ll buy it as soon as I find it in europe straight away!