Friday, December 19, 2014

Experiments in the workshop: Using kokum butter in an emulsified scrub

With the cold winter weather here and promising to get colder, I thought I'd make an emulsified sugar scrub with watermelon seed oil. It's a good choice as it contains a lot of linoleic acid, which will help speed up skin's barrier repair mechanisms. Let's take a look at how I modified one of my favourite recipes!

First things first - what's the difference between an emulsified scrub and a non-emulsified scrub? In an emulsified scrub, we add an emulsifier like Incroquat BTMS-50, Rita BTMS-225, Polawax, e-wax, Ritamulse SCG, and so on, to create a product that will turn to lotion when the water in your shower or tub touches it. It rinses off cleaner than an oil based scrub, and it is thicker in the container. I decided to use Incroquat BTMS-50 because I wanted the conditioning properties as well as the emulsifying properties of this positively charged ingredient.

I'm also adding a fatty alcohol because it will increase the slip and glide of the product and increase the emolliency of the product. Someone asked me the other day if we could leave it out - sure, just increase the amount of cocoa or shea butter to keep the same thickness. I really like cetyl alcohol as it's an inexpensive ingredient - no more than $5 a pound - versus $14 a pound for cocoa butter or more for mango and shea. It also offers a lovely skin feel that I really like.

Normally, I'd use 10% cocoa butter in the recipe, but I'm completely out in the workshop - how did that happen? - so I decided to use kokum butter (INCI: Garcinia indica).

This butter has a much high melting point than other butters - 38˚C to 40˚C - and will make your lotions or other creations much thicker than with other butters. The fatty acid profile is similar to the other butters - 5 to 8% palmitic acid (C16), 40 to 45% stearic acid (C18), 40 to 50% oleic acid (C18:1), and 2 to 4% linoleic acid (C18:2) - but it is considered an astringent butter, on par with mango butter. Its shelf life is listed as between 1 to 2 years.

As you can see, it's harder than cocoa butter so it will make the scrub stiffer. To compensate, I thought I'd use shea butter as it's softer and slightly greasier.

10% Incroquat BTMS-50
10% cetyl alcohol
10% kokum
10% shea butter
56% watermelon seed oil
1% Phenonip
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance oil

Heat all the ingredients except the Vitamin E and fragrance oil in a container until all the ingredients are liquid. Put into the fridge or freezer to cool. You'll know it's time to take it out when the mix is solid-ish but not completely solid. You want to be able to to mix it. Add the Vitamin E and fragrance or essential oils. Add up to 140 grams of sugar for every 100 grams of scrub and mix until it is fluffy. Put into containers. Rejoice!

What did we think of this recipe? It was definitely stiffer than my usual recipe - I think 5% kokum would have worked here - and it was a little harder to get out of the container, but not so hard that I had to use my nails or something. Just less whippy than the version with cocoa butter and harder than the version with black cocoa butter.

It feels lovely going on. Quite easy to spread on my skin and easy to use as a scrub. It rinsed clean with little to no effort, and felt lovely after I dried off. It didn't feel heavy on my skin, and I could feel it a few hours later as a thin layer of oil, which is a nice thing.

Raymond reports that he felt it cut down on the itchiness he's been experiencing in the evenings! Woo! Goal accomplished!

It reminded me of a version I made with sunflower oil - greasy, but not too greasy. Greasy in a good way. And light. Easy to apply, easy to rinse, with a light oil layer left behind. Lovely! All in all, I'd make this one again!

What do you do if you don't have all the ingredients for this recipe? Modify it with one of the variations you see below!

Related posts:
Formulating with soy bean oil - includes recipe for sugar scrub!
Formulating for dry skin
Formulating for other skin types - sugar scrubs!
Emulsified scrub with Ritamulse SCG
Black cocoa emulsified scrub
Question: How do you know what and when to substitute? (All about emulsifiers and scrubs)
Experiments in the workshop - golden shea sugar scrub
Using behenyl alcohol in sugar scrubs
Experiments in the workshop - using behenyl alcohol in the Ritamulse SCG sugar scrub
Pumpkin seed oil: Making an emulsified scrub
Oil or emulsified scrub?

Join me for more fun formulating tomorrow!

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

I absolutely love this one!! Thank you. -Beth D.