Friday, December 26, 2014

Experiments in the workshop: Updating the 3-in-1 shampoo with lupine amino acids

Raymond really likes his 3-in-1 shampoo, conditioner, and body wash product that I originally made for him for his after swim shower, and I thought I'd make more for daily life without the swimming ingredients.

I kept the ingredients relatively the same - I liked the surfactant mix I used and I liked the other hydrating ingredients - but I thought I'd switch out the proteins. I've made this twice recently, once with pisum sativum peptide and this week with lupine amino acids.

10% cocamidopropyl betaine
15% ACI
15% C14-16 olefin sulfonate
15% water
10% rosemary hydrosol
10% witch hazel
10% aloe vera
0.5% polyquat 44
2% cetrimonium chloride
3% glycerin
2% lupine amino acids
2% PEG-7 olivate
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
1% fragrance oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (preservative)
1.5% liquid white willow bark extract

Mix the surfactants and water in a suitably large container and mix well with a fork until it is all gooey and not looking like water with some stuff in it. (Try not to get too many bubbles in the mix, as it can take days for it to come out!) Mix all the rest of the ingredients. If you want this to be thicker, you can add 1% Crothix, then mix well. Add another if it needs it, mix well, and so on until you reach no more than 5% Crothix. If it is still too runny, you can put it in a pump bottle to make it easier to use.

My version with white chocolate fragrance oil took 3% Crothix, while the vanilla oak fragranced version only took 1.5%. Fragrances can affect the viscosity and clarity of your surfactant based products, which is why I make the suggestion to use the fragrance first, then the Crothix!

The colour difference between this version and the one at the top of the post is that this one has powdered white willow bark in it at 0.5% and it is a very brown colour. This is the reason for using a liquid extract - it's clear, so it makes for clearer and less coloured products.

Feel free to add a colour to your product if you want to try to cover up the brown-ness of it. I use LabColours, and I suggest that you get a dye or colour that works with cosmetics as opposed to using food colouring, which isn't approved for use on your body.

What did we think of it? My husband didn't notice a difference between the first version with oat protein, the second version with pisum sativum protein, and the third version with lupine amino acids. He's very attentive and knows what I'm looking for in a review of the product, but said he didn't notice a real difference. (I think the moral of that story is that you can use any protein you want for film forming and moisturizing in a rinse off product like this.) He really likes the product, but didn't think it was more or less moisturizing than the other versions. He thinks it's a very hydrating body wash - his skin doesn't feel tight or dry after using it - and he wants me to make more of it!

What can you do if you don't have the ingredients I list here? What are the odds you'd have all these ingredients, eh? I encourage you to take a look at the original post for this body wash and see why I'm using what I'm using and what you could use instead. The main ingredients are the surfactants - those are the bubbly, foamy, and lathery ingredients - and you can feel free to change them if you want. I chose these because ACI offers what is called an elegant and conditioned skin feel and C14-16 olefin sulfonate is good for oily skin and hair, which is what my husband has. If you wanted to make this for dry skin and hair, you could leave out the C14-16 olefin sulfonate all together and add more water to the mix, or choose another surfactant that works for your hair and skin type. I chose the hydrosols as being good for oily skin and hair, but you could alter that to be rose hydrosol or another one suitable for dry skin and hair.

Join me tomorrow as we have more fun formulating!


Rosa Megasari said...

Hello Susan. I recently learn about anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactant. I read somewhere that anionic and cationic surfactant can't be mixed together. But in your 3-in-1 shampoo, I see that you use ACI (anionic) and cetrimonium (cationic). question is, if your 3-in-1 shampoo can be used nicelye, than is it actually okay to mix the anionic and cationic surfactant?

Sorry for the bad english but I hope you understand what I really mean.
Thank you so much.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Rosa. You don't want to use them in large quantities. In this case, I'm using a bit of a cationic ingredient - less than 5% - and this is okay. I've used other cationic polymers like polyquat 7, polyquat 44, and honeyquat, to name a few, without problem.

Eyrie said...

Hi Susan!
I recently made a shampoo bar following your guidelines and love it. Now I'd like to try my hand at a body wash. But I'm not able to find any ACI to purchase. Please let me know where you purchase your ACI. In the meantime, I'll use my powdered SCI and see how it goes!
Thank you for your excellent blog!