Sunday, December 21, 2014

Experiments in the workshop: Extra hydrating body wash

This time of year is heck on my skin as I tend to wear capri pants and shorts all year 'round, even in wet and cold weather. (It's too warm inside buildings and I'm only outside a very short period of time as I go from car to office and back!) As a result, I want to add moisturizing to every thing I make for the winter months. Today's product is an extra hydrating body wash with ACI and polyglucose/lactylate blend surfactants. I based the recipe on this body wash recipe with a few changes to it.

10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% ACI
20% polyglucose/lactylate blend
1.5% water
14% aloe vera
11% chamomile hydrosol
10% myristamine oxide
5% glycerin
2% lupine amino acids
3% polyquat 7
2% panthenol (liquid)
5% white willow bark liquid extract
5% yerba santa glycoprotein
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil (white chocolate - yum!)
(additional) up to 5% Crothix

Combine all the surfacants into a container and mix well. Then add the rest of the ingredients and mix well, taking care not to create too many bubbles. Let come to room temperature and check the viscosity. If it isn't thick enough, add 1% Crothix. Mix well. Add another 1% Crothix at a time and mix after each inclusion up to 5% Crothix.

I chose ACI as the liquid version of SCI, which makes it easier to mix with the other liquid surfactants. The skin feel is described as elegant and conditioned, which sound like great features for a body wash. It's not an inexpensive surfactant, so I'm using it at 10%. If you wanted to use another surfactant here, any of them would do, just add a little more water soluble oil to offer more moisturizing.

I chose the polyglucose/lactylate blend because it's a mild cleanser that offers a nice moisturized skin feel after rinsing. It is way too moisturizing for my oily skin on my face, but my body skin enjoys it greatly.

I'm adding cocamidopropyl betaine to the mix to increase mildness and viscosity of the body wash. Having said this, I used 3% Crothix to thicken it and it was still not thick enough to put into something like a tottle bottle, hence the pump!

I wasn't paying full attention and added way too much myristamine oxide! (Darn you, awesome music! I just had to sing along, didn't I?) I wanted 5% and ended up with 10%. If you make this recipe at home, feel free to scale this back to 5% and add 5% more to the water phase. If you don't have this ingredient, you could use a water soluble ester like PEG-7 olivate or water soluble shea in its place.

I used lupine protein in this product because I had it at hand and thought it would be a neat inclusion in the body wash. You can substitute any protein you have at home at the same amount. (I would generally use hydrolyzed oat protein here for the film forming properties.)

I used the yerba santa glycoprotein here for extra moisturizing. It is a water soluble extract used at 1% to 5% to offer moisturizing and hydrating to our skin. It contains polysaccharides, like aloe vera, that moisturize our skin. It contains glycoproteins that also help with moisturizing our skin. I've seen versions that contain tannins, so this might be an astringent extract, too. It has been used traditionally for respiratory ailments and as a cough medicine. It apparently has a nice flavour, but I'm not trying it to find out!

What did I think of it? I really liked this recipe! The lather from anything with ACI is always lovely, but this body wash felt moisturizing from the moment I put it on my skin. It scrubbed up well and rinsed off even better. No feelings of tightness or dryness at all. My skin feels like I've put some oil on it, but I haven't! Pretty awesome, indeed!

What can you do if you don't have these ingredients? The most important parts of this recipe are choosing your surfactants wisely, adding a water soluble oil or ester, adding glycerin, and including a protein. If you had to strip it to the bare bones, I'd make sure I had the surfactants, the myristamine oxide or another water soluble oil, the glycerin, and at least 5% protein. The rest is lovely, but optional!

Can you use a regular oil in place of the water soluble oil? Yes and no. If you use the surfactants I suggest, you should be able to add about 3% oil to the mix and not see it float to the top. If you use other surfactants, check the surfactant chart to see if the ones you've chosen are good emulsifiers. If you are using ones that aren't great emulsifiers or if you want more oils, you have to add a solubilizer to the mix - something like polysorbate 80, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, or PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, to name a few - at about equal amounts. Having said this, these ingredients will reduce the foam and lather of the product. ACI has great foam, so you should be okay, but this isn't a guarantee for all surfactants.

Join me tomorrow more fun formulating!

1 comment:

Elizabeth said...

Love your blog, thank you.