Tuesday, September 16, 2014

One ingredient, five products: Gels - making a gelled toner (part three)

We took a look at making a gelled toner with pre-neutralized gel yesterday, but we found it a little thin. (That's not a bad thing; I just want something a bit thicker!) Let's take a look at how we could make a gelled toner from scratch!

To make a gelled toner from scratch - or other gelled products, like the eye gel or an aloe vera gel - you can add your liquid ingredients together, then add the carbomer to it.

What should we add to this version? I think I'll make this version suitable for all skin types, although those with dry skin might want to add a non-sticky humectant like 2.5% sodium lactate or sodium PCA for more moisturizing.

We took a look at date palm extract the other day, so I think I'll include that as an anti-oxidant, film former, and skin softener. I think I'll stick with the witch hazel and chamomile from the other day, although I think aloe vera at 10% or another hydrosol would be very nice. I'm including a new ingredient, bamboo extract* to the mix because it is an anti-irritant and anti-oxidant that feels astringent on our skin. I'm including panthenol because I love this stuff for anything for my skin as it offers wound healing and speeds up skin's barrier repair mechanisms while acting as a humectant.

The viscosity of this product will depend upon the amount of carbomer you use. If you want a thinner product, use 0.8% to 1% carbomer. If you want a thicker product, try 1.3% to 1.5% carbomer.

As well, you can substitute the distilled water with other liquids, like hydrosols or aloe vera. Check to see if your carbomer can handle the extra electrolytes of aloe vera and the hydrosols before using. And always use distilled water if we're not heating and holding!

GELLED TONER #2 for normal and oily skin (all skin types, really)
45.4% distilled water
20% witch hazel
20% chamomile hydrosol
5% date palm extract
5% bamboo extract
1.2% carbomer
0.9% triethanolamine (TEA)
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Combine all the ingredients except the TEA in a container and mix until the carbomer is wetted. Wait about 5 minutes - or the amount of time suggested by your carbomer - then add the TEA. Mix well. Bottle.

As a note, this is a bit of a pain to bottle. Make sure you use a container that you can squish - like an HDPE bottle - to suck the gel into it. I put mine into a funnel, then I squished the bottle enough to make a bubble in the gel, then let go. It sucked the gel into the container. It was awesome! (Don't use a bottle like this picture. I had to pound the heck out of the bottle to get the gel in, then use a stir stick to get the rest in! What a pain in the bum!)

I liked this one. It was thicker than yesterday's version, and it didn't feel sticky on my skin. I did feel like it was on my skin an hour later as a light film. Raymond reported he liked this one a bit better. He felt it wasn't sticky, but it didn't feel like it was on his skin an hour later.

If you want to customize this product for your skin type, take a look at the skin chemistry & types section of the blog. For instance, for someone with dry skin, you might consider including a water soluble oil at 5% to 10% (like PEG-7 olive esters), a humectant (sodium lactate or sodium PCA at 2.5% or less), chamomile extract at up to 0.5% to help reduce trans-epidermal water loss, a hydrolyzed protein at up to 2% (since you won't notice the stickiness under your moisturizer or make-up), a cationic polymer like honeyquat at up to 3%, and so on. There are so many neat things you could include for your skin type! If you haven't already checked out the posts on what ingredients you could use, I encourage you to do so soon!

Here's a sample recipe I haven't tried making but could be quite nice for dry skin! There are myriad ways to customize this recipe - this is just one variation!

GELLED TONER #3 for dry skin
65.4% distilled water
10% aloe vera
10% lavender hydrosol
5% PEG-7 olive esters or another water soluble oil
2.5% sodium lactate
2% polyquat 7 or honeyquat
2% panthenol
1.2% carbomer
0.9% triethanolamine (TEA)
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Dissolve the chamomile powdered extract in a bit of water, then add to the rest of the ingredients. Mix in the carbomer and allow it to become wetted. Wait 5 minutes or the requisite period of time for your carbomer, then add the TEA or 18% lye solution. Stir well. Bottle. Again, choose a bottle you can squish!

There are so many variations you could make with this product. Cosmeceuticals like niacinamide or hyaluronic acid, would be great choices. You could try making a Vitamin C serum with your gel, just make sure you choose the right type of Vitamin C! Try playing around with a variety of water soluble ingredients in your gelled toner until you find something you'll love!

Other posts in this series:
One ingredient, five products: Gels
One ingredient, five products: Gels - making an aloe vera gel
One ingredient, five products: Gels - making an eye gel
One ingredient, five products: Gels - making a gelled toner (part one)
One ingredient, five products: Gels - making a gelled toner (part two)

*As a quick note, I have received the bamboo extract from the Formulator Sample Shop for free. I receive no other compensation from this company to use or talk about this ingredient. I buy all the ingredients on this blog with my wages from my job, unless otherwise indicated. 

Clive mentioned that men seem to prefer gelled toners over creams or lotions, which might be "too girly" for manly men. So let's take a look at making an after shave tomorrow!

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