Monday, September 15, 2014

One ingredient, five products: Gels - making a gelled toner (part two)

On Friday we took a look at a new product, a gelled toner, and figured we could make one at home using carbomers. The big difference between making a regular, liquid toner and a gelled toner will be eliminating stickier ingredients because we won't be removing it from our skin.

What kinds of things would we want to put in a gelled toner? This is the perfect place to include all kinds of water soluble ingredients like our cosmeceuticals and extracts. We have to be particular about using humectants, as they can often be sticky, and proteins.

If you want to learn more about your skin type, check out the skin chemistry & types part of the blog

I thought I'd make a basic one for my oily skin with a few different ingredients. I think this basic version would be nice for oily skin and for acne prone skin. As with any product, I want to start off with a few things in it so I can figure out what I like and don't like about it. I'm going to include witch hazel to offer moisturizing and astringency, chamomile hydrosol because I want to soothe my skin and reduce redness, and white willow bark liquid because I want something that will help with my break outs.

We'll be making this version by making up a gel first (click here for the process), then we'll add the liquid ingredients. We aren't adding more preservative because I used it in the gel, which means we have 0.35% liquid Germall Plus, a nice number within the suggested usage rate of 0.1% to 0.5%. (The math is that I used 0.5 grams in 100 grams of gel, so when I use 70 grams of gel, it contains 0.35 grams liquid Germall Plus. 0.5 x 70 = 0.35 grams.)

70% pre-made gel (thick version)
10% witch hazel
10% chamomile hydrosol
5% white willow bark

Weigh all the ingredients into a container. Mix well. Package.

Raymond's thoughts were that it didn't feel sticky going on and it didn't feel sticky on his skin an hour later. In fact, he thought that he couldn't feel it any more. I liked this one - it was a bit thinner than I would have liked it to be, but it felt nice going on without stickiness and an hour later I thought I could feel it was still there.

The only real downside of this toner is that I thought it was a little thin. There are a few things I could do about this. I could put in less liquid - let's say 5% of each thing instead of 10% - or I could make the gel from scratch using the liquids instead of water.

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at making a gelled toner from scratch instead of using a pre-neutralized carbomer!

Other posts in this series:
One ingredient, five products: Gels
One ingredient, five products: Gels - making an aloe vera gel
One ingredient, five products: Gels - making an eye gel
One ingredient, five products: Gels - making a gelled toner (part one)


Leann said...

Hi Susan,
When looking over specific additive combinations on several popular cosmetic formulator sites, I noticed that many come in synergistic blends with 4 or 5 plant extracts However, often those come in either oil soluble or water soluble mediums. Obviously if I wanted to create a specific product such as a water based toner, I'd buy a water soluble extract blend. BUT my question is, if I can purchase only one kind to play/experiment with in several different products, wouldn't the oil soluble blend be the way to go, as the most versatile, as some type of solubilizer could be used?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Leann! This is a great example of choosing an ingredient to be versatile! I hate to sound wishy washy, but it really does depend upon the products you make. I generally choose water soluble extracts because I like to be able to add them to water only products like cleansers or toners without using a solubilizer. Don't get me wrong, solubilizers have their place, but I find they feel sticky on my skin even at low levels, so I don't like to use them in cleansers, toners, or misting sprays.

Which one to choose? It sounds like oil soluble would work best for you, while water soluble tends to work best for me.

As an aside, extracts can have different compositions between the oil and water soluble versions. For instance, the oil soluble version might have more phytosterols and oil soluble vitamins while the water soluble version might have more polyphenols and water soluble vitamins. (Just an example...) So check that as well!