Friday, September 5, 2014

Coconut oil and pisum sativum rinse off conditioner

As you probably know, I'm a big fan of using coconut oil in my rinse off hair conditioners because it offers so many great qualities, including moisturization and a reduction in frizz, but I find this one with 5% is making my hair feel oily around the middle of the second day after washing, so I thought I'd try using no coconut oil at all a few weeks ago. The problem there is that I lost some of the anti-frizz properties and my hair isn't going into ringlets any more! So I thought I'd try a version of this conditioner with just a titch of coconut oil - 3% - which is less than the 5% that made my hair feel oilier but, I hope, enough to offer moisturization and film forming.

To learn more about why I'm using these general ingredients, click here for the post on conditioners.

7% BTMS-50
3% coconut oil
2% cetrimonium chloride

78.5% distilled water
2% quaternized rice protein

2% pisum sativum peptide
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or preservative of choice)
1% fragrance oil (white chocolate, as usual!)
  1. Weigh the heated oil phase in a container and put it into a double boiler. 
  2. Weigh the heated water phase in a container and put it into a double boiler. 
  3. Let each phase come to 70˚C and heat for 20 minutes. You can put this on very low, as long as the ingredients remain at 70˚C. 
  4. Remove from the heat, then pour the heated water phase into the heated oil phase and mix well. 
  5. Allow it to stand and come to 45˚C, then add the cool down phase and mix very well. 
  6. Allow to come to room temperature, then package in an appropriate container. 

What's different than the last time? I didn't have any keratin hydrolysate, so I thought I'd use a new protein the Formulator Sample Shop* sent me called pisum sativum peptide, which is a protein from a type of pea. It works like other proteins in that it is a film former and moisturizer, It is supposed to hydrate hair as well as wheat hydrolysate (hydrolyzed protein), it behaves as an anti-oxidant, and it increases your hair's diameter.

You can use the hydrolyzed protein of your choice if you don't have the pisum sativum. Choose silk hydrolyzed protein, oat hydrolyzed protein, Phytokeratin, amongst others.

I'm using the quaternized rice again, but you can use any cationic polymer you have at home. Polyquat 7, polyquat 44, honeyquat (in the cool down phase), or another cationic polymer would work in this product.

If you don't have coconut oil, you can try another oil - but I really encourage you to get some. It's inexpensive, readily available in grocery and health food stores as well as at our supplier's shops, and it has a two year shelf life.

What do I think of it? I like it. My hair is still getting all that coconut oil awesomeness, which I can see in healthier looking hair, more shine, less frizziness, and ringlets at the ends of the strands, with less greasiness. I managed to get two days out of my hair with some greasiness coming very late in the second day - around bedtime kind of late - which is awesome! I think this is the one I'll stick with for a least until the winter dryness forces me back to the winter custard recipe with 10% coconut oil!

Related posts:
Conditioners: The basic recipes
Conditioners: Adding coconut oil
Some oils CAN penetrate your hair
Making a coconut oil hair conditioner
Adding oils - coconut oil

Learning to formulate: Small changes to the water & cool down phase
Learning to formulate: Small changes to the oil phase
Learning to formulate: A few small changes to consider

*As a note, the Formulator Sample Shop sends me free things to try. I do not get paid for my opinion; my only compensation is the free product. I have made it very clear that I will give my complete and honest opinion on this blog. 


Ali said...

I just wanted to say I found your blog recently. I'm a newish soap maker and have been excited to see that so much more is possible to make than I thought. I find your write-ups very interesting and just wanted to express my excitement in print!

Clive said...

My most popular product uses pea polypeptides. I really like the effect in an anti-wrinkle cream. Was it Proteasyl by any chance?

La Prairie Lady said...

I have natural curly hair, thick and dry like all the hair that curls naturally, for 40 years I have followed the evolution of hair products.

I used for some time coconut oil and I rub my wet hair. Last night, instead I used coconut oil fractionated. WoW what a difference, my hair soft and shiny. I go to bed with slightly damp hair. I do not use a hair dryer because it is hell, my hair like a bale of hay. I do my hair in the morning with my iron.

I will make a lotion to put after my shampoo with water only, ewax, fractionated coconut oil and preservative.

It will be easier to use in hair. It is more difficult to apply oil as lotion.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ali! Thank your for your kind words! I'm glad I can be helpful!

Hi Clive! This was an ingredient I received from Formulator Sample Shop, and I only know it by the INCI. I've used it in a moisturizer and the body wash.

Hi La Prairie Lady (aka Diane)! Fractionated coconut oil is awesome stuff, and I like to use it on the ends of my hair some times. Are you using some kind of heat protective spray on your hair when you use your iron? And can I make a suggestion - why use e-wax instead of BTMS for a hair lotion? BTMS-25 or 50 are great conditioners, and would make a nice conditioning lotion that would be substantive on your hair instead of a lotion that isn't substantive!

La Prairie Lady said...

Yes I use heat protective spray Got2b. About BTMS I have 225 it's like Ritamulse I can use it ? Also Cetyl alcohol may be 2-3%, I will make 100 ml only for test.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi La Prairie Lady! You can use Rita BTMS-225 in this application as we aren't emulsifying a ton of oils!

Irina said...

Hello Susan,
Long time reader/admirer here.
i was searing your blog for info on porous hair and couldn't find any? If you have this, could you point me to where it might be, please? If not, could you be so kind to write a post about hair porosity, it's types and what would be the best ingreds. to use in hair care for this type, please?
Also,i have never seen you talking about PH in hair conditioners. I also never seen any of your formulas where you'd adjust PH to slightly acidic- as that what i've read, is best for the hair cuticles to close. Could you tell me what are your thoughts on this, does PH in conditioners have to be about 4 to 5.
Thank you in advance, Irina.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Irina! Thanks for your kind words! I'm always happy to help!

In this post, I mention the pH of virgin and damaged hair, and in this post, I mention that we can't use alkaline things in our hair. It's a good idea for a post, though! Look for that coming soon...

The recipes I write for conditioners are pH balanced, because all of the ingredients we use in a conditioner are acidic to begin with! We might use the odd alkaline thing - to be honest, I can't think of an alkaline ingredient we'd put in a conditioner - but that ingredient won't be enough to throw things out of whack so badly that we're using something with a pH over 8 as a conditioner. If you're making conditioners with a cationic quaternary compound, like BTMS-50 or BTMS-225, some oils, some proteins, and so on, you won't make anything that isn't acidic!

As for hair porosity, here are some great posts from the Natural Haven, a blog I absolutely love. She knows what's she's talking about, while I'd only be a beginner offering information I've read from other blogs. If you don't frequent her blog, I definitely suggest it!

Porosity - definition and causes
Porosity - can you fix it?
Junk science - hair porosity tests

Irina said...

Wow! Thanks so-o-o much Susan!
I don't even have a single question as yet, this much info you've provided in your response!
Thank you again, going to visit the links(might have questions after reading though! :))
Best regards, Irina.

Megan Mischke said...

I received some VegeMoist (Glycine Betaine (Beta vulgaris (Beet)) Sugar Extract) accidentally. I read only the supplier information. It is classified as a moisturizer. I sounds lovely but I am not sure if it would be best in a conditioner or lotion. Have you ever used beet sugar extract? Any suggestions on how it should be incorporated into my formulations? Here is a link Thanks you so much for your invaluable blog, Megan

Kelli Spears said...

Hi Megan,
I saw your comment on this and it has been quite a while since you posted it but I thought I would reply anyway. Hope you see it and it offers some help.
I use Glycine Betaine in both lotion and conditioner. It is said to provide moisture directly to skin and hair and is able to penetrate the hair shaft to offer moisture within. This can be a great thing for skin and hair, especially for people who live in a dry climate. Humectants draw water from the surrounding environment to our hair and skin are great at what they do, but if the climate is very dry and there isn't much water/moisture to draw from the environment then moisture can be pulled from deeper in the skin layers to the surface layers, which is not really beneficial. I do add humectant ingredients to both body cream and conditioner, but I also add the Glycine Betaine since it adds moisture directly. This has advantages to people who live in either type of climate. You could also use it in shampoo, but I don't think people tend to leave the shampoo on their hair for as long as they would a conditioner before rinsing, so I just prefer to use it in conditioner as this helps with cost when formulating. For people who don't use conditioner and only use a conditioning shampoo, it could be used in those formulations.
The suggested rate of usage is 1%-10% but I only use it at 1% in both products and it works great for me. You would add this ingredient to the heated water phase and it has really good water solubility.
Hope that helps out some.