Monday, August 25, 2014

Why did I buy this and what the heck can I do with it? Foaming bath butter

I've always wanted to play with Foaming Bath Butter, but I could never find it. Then Voyageur Soap & Candle brought it in, and it was time to play! (You can get this at various suppliers. Check the frequently asked questions section of the blog to find a supplier near you!)

So what is foaming bath butter? The ingredients Aqua, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Tetrasodium EDTA.

So what we have is a paste that is made with surfactants - the sodium cocoyl isethionate and disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate - with some humectants - sorbitol and glycerin - with water, salt, preservative, and a chelating ingredient. It is less solid that the most refined shea butter I've ever used, and was easy to get out of the container with a spoon. You can add up to 5% oils by weight to the product.

As a note, it might be easy to remove from the container because it's really hot in my workshop right now - over 30˚C some days. (Darn you, summer! You are my nemesis!) I say this as I've seen some sites saying that you should "cut chunks" of the FBB before using, so it might not be as easy to remove from the container during the colder months. (Source: Stephenson, the creators of the base. Look at this video where they are cutting chunks of the product.)

The glycerin and sorbitol are humectants, but they are also plasticizers, which means they can make things more pliable. In this product, they are used to keep the products whipped instead of solid, because otherwise, you'd just have melt & pour soap that comes in blocks. As well, these ingredients mean the product is milder than a product without the humectants, which is what we call increasing mildness in our surfactant mixes.

Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) is considered a very mild surfactant that leaves behind what is called an elegant skin feel, meaning your skin should feel conditioned rather than feeling dry or tight. Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate (DLS) is also considered very mild, and is recommended for oily skin as it will remove sebum gently.

What can we use it for? Because it is a surfactant paste, you can use it anywhere you might use surfactants. But it's mainly used to make scrubs or whips - for instance, a shaving soap or a sugar scrub - or to make whipped toppings for bath bombs because it'll melt in the tub when you throw in that lovely bath cupcake! (I did make up my own version of the whipped topping, which you can find in this post!)

SCI and DLS are two very lovely surfactants that can be used in any cleansing product you might like to make from body scrubs to body wash pastes to facial cleansers and even shampoos! (I use this combination in my conditioning shampoo bars for oily hair!) My pH meter registered it as just slightly under 6, which is the perfect pH for hair! (This pH is confirmed by the company, Stephenson, which lists it as 5.5 to 7.)

This product can grow up to double in size if you whip it with a whisk. This should take 3 to 5 minutes or so. Make sure you have enough in the container! I originally used 30 grams because I don't have a lot of it, and it didn't whip at all. 100 grams was a good amount in a tall container. I keep seeing recipes calling for 1 pound or 2 pounds (454 grams to 980 grams), which will make a heck of a lot of product if it'll double in size. I'm going to suggest that you start with smaller amounts - I made 2 - 4 ounce (120 ml) containers with 90 grams foaming bath butter.

What do I plan to do with it? I thought it would make a lovely exfoliating sugar scrub I could use in the shower. You don't need to heat this ingredient - you can just pop it into a container and whip with a whisk attachment to get a lovely whipped scrub. You can add all kinds of exfoliants - I used 50% sugar - and you can add oils to make it more moisturizing. 

How much oil can you add? The consensus seems to be 2 ounces of oil or butters per pound, which works out to about 12.5% by weight. It can accept up to 5% in fragrance or essential oil. It's suggested to add up to 60% sugar to the product. I used 50% and really liked that. 

You can add water soluble colours to it, and make yourself a coloured product. The Soap Queen made a lovely scrub using clay, which would make it thicker

Where can I find some recipes for this ingredient? I'll be sharing my foaming bath butter bamboo & sugar scrub with you tomorrow. In the meantime, here are a few that looked really nice! 


Examples of how to make a soap frosting! 

Join me tomorrow as I make a white chocolate foaming bath butter sugar scrub! 

15 comments:

Elizabeth Aqui-Seto said...

Susan, this is an amazing product. I get mine from ND in Canada. I've been buying on and off for last few years and added several different ingredients, including, sugar, clay, green tea, banana, pineapple botanical powdered extracts, carrier oils and of course different fragranes and essential oils. I find, especially in the winter, it's easier to handle if I very gently warmed in microwave, in order to combine my dry botanicals. And it just about doubles in size the more you whip. I think it would be almost impossible to ruin the product and my skin always feels soft and exfoliated after I use it.

Nesh Dotstry said...

Hi Susan, I love this product and I actually just started formulationg my own. I used water,SCI,Cetyl Alcohol,Cocamidopropyl Betaine,glycerin,and LGP. Now I wanna move beyond that and turn it into a cream shampoo.

Ann H. said...

Hi Susan, I have played with foaming bath butters before, but I don't care for the greasy feeling they leave. What would be the best emulsifier to use in these recipes? Thanks for the advice!

Angie said...

Hi Susan,
OMG I love this product. I have very dry sensitive skin. I put the bath butter in the microwave for a few seconds to soften it, add 5% Shea butter and just a few drops of Almond or Jojoba oil. I'm in the UK so it's quite cool most of the time! I then add about 3 - 4% Vanilla absolute. It needs quite a bit to get any form of scent in there. I then stir like crazy to get it all to mix and go fluffy.
I usually make 100gm at a time and keep it in a lidded pot. Just right for keeping it dry in the shower.
I do have a question - has anyone successfully used fine sea salt in this FBB to make a foaming scrub?
I am going to have a go on my next batch but curious to know if anyone has already had a go.

kal said...

Hi Susan, Do you have post on how to make foaming bath whip?

Thanks
Kal

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kal. No. I have this recipe that might be similar - possibly a foaming bath butter - and I have a recipe for cupcake icing, both of which are similar but not as whippy as foaming bath butter.

Lizzie said...

Hi Susan,
I wish to make my own foaming bath butter using SCI and Cocamidopropyl
Betaine etc but I would like to use an alternative preservative to Optiphen that is suitable for this product.
Optiphen has too strong a 'scent' for me.
Any suggestions....

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Lizzie! Please visit the preservatives section of the blog to see all your options!

La Prairie Lady said...

Hello Susan and Everyone

Many of you like the foaming bath butter. I found on the net basic recipes that I made and which satisfy me. Easy to do.

Original First basic recipe. Found in 2008

30% Water
15% SCI
4% SLS (I used SLSA)
4% Stearic acid
20% Glycerin
10 % Sorbitol
6% Propylene Glycol
1% Preservative

You get a total of 90% Add 10% ingredients of your choice. You can put more

ingredients, playing with the 10%

2% Fragrance
5% Oil of your choice
3% Coconut/Goat milk Powder

In the double-boil melt completely Water, SCI, SLSA, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbitol and

Propylene Glycol. Let cool completely.

Whip with hand mixer and add Preservative and other ingredients of your choice.

The texture is amazing, very silky like a thick cold cream with no air bubble like foaming bath butter from store.

Now, You don't like Sorbitol and Propylene Glycol.... no worry with that.

I remade the recipe by changing the undesirable ingredients and I got the same creamy texture

31% Water
15% SCI
4% SLS (I used SLSA)
4% Stearic acid
21% Glycerin
11 % Sugar Sirop (make sirop to 70% with 1 TBS+ 1/2 Teaspoon sugar + 1-1/2 teaspoon water, heat 10 seconds to melt the sugar)
3% Sodium Lactate
1% Preservative

My 10% ingredients: 2% fragrance - 1% Oat protein - 2% Kaolin clay - 5% Oil

You know you can play with basic recipe, foaming bath butter from store is more hard.

Use less water (20%) stearic acid (5%), increase SCI and SLSA. You need always SCI but you can subtitute SLSA with Coco Betaine too.

I cook a lot of soap, I made true HP cream soap. I work to make a cream soap recipe with a grated bar and get the same feeling as Syndet. When I am satisfied I will give you the recipe

Recipe of 100 grams and filled a 8oz jar, get more than half

Have a fun
Diane

N. Bax said...

Hello, I've enjoyed reading your blog and the column to the right.
I was wondering, if there maybe was or could be a discount if all books are brought at one time ?

I have something to ask you, I think, I'm going to really look around and see if I can find anything but I but I hear from you 1st.

Thanks

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi N. Back! No, sorry, I don't offer a discount as all the proceeds to go the kids!

N. Bax said...

Thank you for answering so fast.

My eyes are about crossed looking around for this next thing

Please, will you go through what the textual and other differences are for the following body moisturizers :

Milk-up to 90% water, super thin lotion

Lotion-up to 70% water,

Crème-up to 10% water, very thick "lotion" w/1 or more skin conditioners

Cream-realating to, pertaining to or containing dairy products.

Lotion Bar-solid lotion, looks & feels like soap, less messy to use

Butter-0% water, can be greasy & messy to use-but good for skin

Mousse-whipped lotion-for skin, more often for styling hair

Frosting-light & airy feel-creme & mousse & conditioners whipped to extreme

Soufflé-uber whipped

Custard-has at least 1 sweetener and 1 or more dairy products and used on both skin & hair

Pudding-good frhairop of head to bottom of feet-should melt into skin very quickly

Icing-xxx moisturizers

Butter Bar-no water & no wax - easier to use in a container

Parfait-so uber whipped-light & fluffy that no rubbing needed-should be completely absorbed in 60-99 seconds

Brulée-whipped hair conditioner and styling product for hair-generally used for curly hair or to help curl hair

Those terms I found in relationship to a lotion search-the definitions-a cross of 7 on line dictionary's, sites, YouTube videos, blogs & forums...yet they are not explained well as to what they are or do for skin and or hair
And I bet some of them are still incorrect.
And are there any that maybe shouldn't be used on fragile skinned older people ?

The example for mousse doesn't tell me anything about it really, and I would like to know.

I really want to understand them and know exactly what they are...thank you

N. Bax said...

PS did I leave out any body moisturizers names ? Please add them and what they are if I missed any ....thanks

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi N Bax. I discuss this a lot on the blog, but here's the short answer. None of them mean anything. The word lotion means oil and water brought together in an emulsion by an emulsifier. I can call anything a body butter, cream, moisturizer, etc. and it doesn't mean a thing. There are general terms people use, but a body butter can be a lotion or anhydrous. Take a look at the newbie section to see more definitions!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi N. Bax! I go into this in more detail in today's Weekend Wonderings. Thanks for a good question!