Thursday, August 21, 2014

One ingredient, five products: Cucumber extract in an apres shaving spray (part three)

On Tuesday we figured out how to make a apres shaving spray with cucumber extract and minimally processed ingredients, and we created the recipe on Wednesday. I thought today could be about modifying that product.

Please note, these modifications will work for a variety of products, including lotions, body washes, toners, and other things you might like to make instead of the shaving spray. I figured it would be fun to look at other ways we could accomplish the goals we set out, which was to offer moisturizing without oils, reduce inflammation, and reduce redness. 

Should I include a cationic polymer for conditioning? Yeah, I could use honeyquat at up to 3% in the cool down phase, but my husband finds it a bit sticky. Or you could use polyquat 7 at up to 3% in the heated water phase.

Can I include an oil in this? No, you can't, unless you use a solubilizer because all the ingredients in this product are water soluble. And solubilizers tend to feel pretty sticky, which isn't what we want. You could, however, use a water soluble oil like PEG-7 olive oil esters or water soluble shea butter. Don't use too much, though. Maybe 5% or so because they can feel a bit sticky at higher levels.

What about proteins? I used hydrolyzed silk protein yesterday in this product, and I really like the feel of it. However, you can use any hydrolyzed protein or peptide you like. I've been playing with one called lupine amino acids that the Formulator Sample Shop* sent me, and I quite like it. I wasn't able to find a ton of information about it, but it has a similar feeling to silk to me, and I'm wondering if it penetrates hair and skin as well? You could use oat, wheat, soy, or any other protein at up to 2% in the heated water phase.

As a note, some proteins can be a bit sticky, so I suggest trying them out in a product that isn't chock full of expensive ingredients to see if you like it. For instance, try making something like this - 48.5 grams water, 1 gram protein of choice, and 0.5 to 1 gram preservative and see if you think it feels sticky. If you like it, then great! If not, then you didn't waste a ton of ingredients!

What about humectants? You can try other humectants, but keep them at lower levels so you don't get stickiness. You can try honey at 2% or lower and see if you like it, try propylene glycol at up to 3%, or even glycerin at up to 2%. Again, if you are worried about stickiness, try adding them

*As I've noted before, the Formulator Sample Shop has sent me free ingredients to try. I receive no compensation for writing about them, and I've made it clear that they will get my honest opinion, good or bad, on the blog.

MODIFIED CUCUMBER & PEPPERMINT APRES SHAVING SPRAY
HEATED WATER PHASE
42% distilled water
20% witch hazel
10% peppermint hydrosol
10% aloe vera liquid
3% polyquat 7
3% PEG-7 olivate
2% sodium PCA
2% hydrolyzed silk protein

COOL DOWN PHASE
5% liquid cucumber extract or 0.5% powdered extract (add 4.5% distilled water)
1% liquid panthenol
0.5% honeysuckle extract
0.5% chamomile extract
1% Germaben II

Weigh the heated water phase into a heat proof container and place in a double boiler. Weigh the container with ingredients so you can compensate for water loss at the end of the process. Heat until it reaches 70˚C, then hold for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, weigh the container and ingredients again, and add enough water to make it up to the original weight.

Allow the ingredients to cool down to 45˚C, then add the cool down ingredients. Stir well. Allow to cool to room temperature, then bottle. I like to use spray bottles, but you can use any bottle with a disc cap or other closure.

What do I think of this version? I liked it, and it felt more moisturizing than yesterday's version, thanks to the water soluble oil and cationic polymer. As with yesterday's version, it doesn't sting open cuts, but it doesn't stop bleeding either.

I'm loving this as a toner/moisturizer for my really oily skin. Considering that I loaded it up with loads of things for red and irritated skin, this is a great product for your face as well!

Other posts in this series:
One ingredient, five products: Cucumber extract
One ingredient, five products: Cucumber extract in a basic toner
One ingredient, five products: Cucumber extract in a more complicated toner
One ingredient, five products: Cucumber extract in an eye gel
One ingredient, five products: Cucumber extract in an apres shaving spray (part one)
One ingredient, five products: Cucumber extract in an apres shaving spray (part two)

Join me tomorrow for a few ideas about making cleaning products at home!

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