Tuesday, July 1, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Whipped butters without butter

A few years ago, I set out to see if I could create a whipped butter without using a butter in the hopes of being able to turn some of my favourite oils into whipped butters! Take a minute to check out my posts on the topic if you're interested...

Experiments in the workshop: Whipped butter without butter - cetyl alcohol
Experiments in the workshop: Whipped butter without butter - stearic acid
Experiments in the workshop: Whipped butter without butter - cetearyl alcohol
Experiments in the workshop: Whipped butter without butter - complicated with esters version
What the heck is this and what can I do with it? Captex SBE/Butter EZ
Ingredients: Using Captex SBE as a thickener with oils

Okay, so what does this have to do with working with Incroquat BTMS-50? (I think you can see where I'm going with this...) We can make whipped butters with this emulsifier! Just add 10% to 15% Incroquat BTMS-50, depending upon the viscosity of the oil, and you've got yourself a stiff whipped butter. You'll have to play around with the amounts to get the stiffness you want in the product.

10% Incroquat BTMS-50 or BTMS-25
90% oil of choice

Combine the two ingredients in a heatproof container and heat until melted. Put in a fridge or freezer until the top of the liquid becomes thick or even solid. Remove from the fridge or freezer and add up to 1% fragrance or essential oil (check suggested usage rates). Whip with beaters until fluffy. Rejoice.

See how easy that is? The only down side is that the butter won't melt on contact with your skin the way something like mango or shea butter might melt because the Incroquat BTMS-50 or BTMS-25 has a higher melting point than those butters. But you will get a wonderfully moisturizing and emollient whipped butter that will keep its shape through the warmer months!

Other posts in this series:
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a rinse off conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a leave in conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in an intense conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part one)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part two)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a body butter
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a sugar scrub (part one)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a sugar scrub (part two)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BMTS-50 in a silicone based moisturizer

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at creating solid scrub bars!


Ginrei said...

OH~! Since the BTMS is an emulsifier, could I add water soluble things into this? Namely, glycerin? Thanks to a suggestion you gave me on a post ages ago, I tried mixing glycerin into some lanolin and adding that to a whipped butter... it works really well, actually! But is a little too sticky for my taste, so I think the powderyness of BTMS might be a nice compliment... :)

I'd also be interested in making a butter/BTMS combo... maybe reduce the BTMS in the recipe and add a hard-ish butter, like cocoa?

Ntombi Makhanye said...

Thanks so much for this. I'll be trying to out today with some Soybean oil. Would like to see how it turns out.

Kay Stary said...

Would it be ok to use this on my hair since btms is a conditioning emulsifier after shampooing?

Diva Soap said...

When I first saw this fabulous recipe, I almost immediately tried it. At the time, I didn't have BTMS 50,but I tried with other two emulsifiers: Montanov 68 was my first batch and another was Lanette N (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate).
I started as suggested: 10 % of emulsifier and 90% of oils. My oils were: 50% avocado, 20% sesame and 20% pumpkin seed oils.

The oil proportion was the same for both batches.

Montanov 68 makes great emulsions, thick creams and it's very nice, even at 4-5 %. I thought it might work for anhydrous butter, also.
However, neither of emulsifiers did almost nothing. It was thicker, sure, but not buttery.
So, I started added real butters, shea 10 g (the starting weight was 100g of each), then 10 more, then 10 g of cocoa butter, still not enough firm.
I tried adding Cetyl- still nothing.
Meantime, I got BTMS 50 and added it only to Montanov emulsion, because Lannette N is an anioinic emulsifier.
So, to make long story short, my final butter (the one with Montanov 68)looked like this:

MOntanov 68- 5.5%
BMTS 50- 3.8%
Oils (mentioned aboove)- 53%
Shea- 28%
Cocoa - 5.5%
Cetyl Alcohol - 1.7%
Cornstarch - 2.5%

I must say that this experiment was done at extreme weather conditions, and even with A/C working inside, it still was hot.
But, after all, I think that this recipe could work, if not without butters at all, then with a certain small percentage of them.
I also believe it could totally make up in winter months, though!


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ginrei! Yes, you could add water soluble things to this, but remember that you might need to add a preservative at that point!

Hi Ntombi! How did it turn out?

Hi Kay. Sure! It sounds like it would be way too much on someone's hair, but you can try it!

Hi Maja! Sounds fantastic! I'm going to try this over the next week as I have more holiday time! Which e-book did you want? Yeah, you can submit more than one review and get more than one e-book. I just decided that now! :-)

Diva Soap said...

Hi Susan and welcome back!
You listed my name among winners last week and i sent you an e-mail afterwards. Not knowing that you'll keep the old manner of giving away your books to all participants, I wrote you I wanted the new 'Facial products' book, but now, if I'm supposed to pick one more, I'd like to have book on making lotions (part 2).
I'll send you a mail later!
There is no way I could thank you enough for giving away these great books.

Ntombi Makhanye said...

It came out ok, but after 2 days the oil bled out. It was just a mess. Tried another batch with 20% butters and it held and hasn't separated.

Anonymous said...

Hi. Susan,

Could this recipe work with Btms 25?

Many thanks


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ayanda! As I mention in the post, yes, you can use BTMS-25.

Max said...

Hi Susan! I just stumbled upon this post while trying to find out if I could use BTMS in a whipped cleansing butter for my face. I like my cleansing oil, but I'd love to try to make something with a thicker texture - I'm imagining it'll feel super luxurious on my skin :)

As a cleansing oil is basically oil + emulsifier, and BTMS is also an emulsifier, would the recipe above work like a cleansing oil? Or would I need to increase the amount of BTMS or add something like polysorbate to ensure the product rinses off?

Thanks so much!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Max! Why don't you make a small batch and try it? You don't need to add a solubilizer like polysorbate because you already have an emulsifier in the product in the form of BTMS. If you do try this, please come back and share your results so others can learn from you!

Max said...

Excellent plan! I'll make a test batch, maybe try some different percentages of BTMS and see how it works out.

I'll keep you posted :)