Tuesday, July 15, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Sunflower oil in oil based scrubs

Making an oil based scrub is incredibly simple - it doesn't require heating, just pouring and mixing - and sunflower oil is a fantastic choice for such an appplication. Yeah, I know, I keep going on about the awesome linoleic acid and how it is great for repairing skin's barrier mechanisms and reducing transepidermal water loss, the fantastic oleic acid that moisturizes and softens, and the fabulous phytosterols that reduce inflammation and itching, but these are really fantastic features in an inexpensive and plentiful oil!

The one down side of using sunflower oil in a scrub is that it is a greasy feeling oil, and some of us like a slightly less greasy feel. But that's easy to fix! Just choose some less greasy oils for your product and consider using a citrus essential oil to help reduce that feeling even further. I like to use sunflower oil at no more than 50% of my oils, and I choose things like hazelnut oil, evening primrose oil, or macadamia nut oil for the other half for things I might use for my hands. (For my body, I like a greasier feeling product, so I use olive oil, pumpkin seed oil, or soy bean oil for the other half!) Experiment with various oils to see how you like the combinations before making huge batches of this product.

96% liquid oil of choice (or combination of oils)
2% fragrance or essential oil
1% Vitamin E (optional)
1% Phenonip, Optiphen, or Liquipar Oil preservative

Mix your oils together well. Into a clean jar add 100% salt. Pour the oils over top, mix, and you've got yourself a lovely scrub! This will need to be mixed every time you use it as the oils migrate to the top of the jar. (Buy a few little spatulae from your local supply store, like Voyageur, to ensure you aren't contaminating it!) If you are using this in the tub, please buy some plastic jars - glass and slippery surfaces aren't a winning combination (unlike alcohol and night swimming, according to Lenny from the Simpsons!)

If you want to make a completely saturated oil scrub that won't need much stirring, you can put salt up to the top of the jar, then pour your oil over it. Let it sit overnight and see how much oil comes to the top. If it doesn't rise up and form a layer (or at least a significant layer), you have a saturated oil based scrub that won't need much stirring. It will feel drier than a scrub that has more oil available to it.

You can modify your oil scrub to contain specific ingredients for specific applications. I have a series of posts on creating an oil based facial scrub in the "related posts" section below, and you'll see that we use different oils for facial products than we do for other body parts.

For a manicure scrub, I like lecithin and lanolin in my scrub. As well, I think the orange or citrus essential oil is really necessary to give the product a less greasy feeling on my hands.

30% sunflower oil
30% hazelnut oil
15% camellia oil, fractionated coconut oil, or other light oil
10% lanolin
10% lecithin
2% IPM
1% orange or other citrus essential oil
1% mint based essential oil
1% Phenonip or other oil soluble preservative

Weigh all the ingredients except the essential oils into a heatproof container and put into a double boiler. Heat until the lanolin has melted. Get a 125 ml clean jar, add 100 grams of salt, then pour over the amount of oil you want into the container. Mix as you add - you can stop and mix, then add more. Rejoice for you are done!

When it comes to the salts, I like to use 20% Dead Sea salts and 80% fine sea salts. Don't use all Dead Sea salts as they are hygroscopic and will draw water to your container if you leave it open, which can result in a block of salts in your scrub.

Related posts:
Back to Basics: Oil based scrubs 
Chemistry of our nails: Oil based scrubs
What makes people think Fresh Brown Sugar Body Polish is so great? (Recipe included...)
Facial scrubs: Creating the base of a facial scrub
Facial scrubs: Creating the base of a facial scrub - dry or normal skin
Facial scrubs: Creating the base of a facial scrub - oily or acne prone skin
Facial scrubs: Adding exfoliants to the base facial scrub
Facial scrubs: Adding oil based extracts
Facial scrubs: Adding essential oils

Other posts in this series:
One ingredient, ten products: Sunflower oil
One ingredient, ten products: Sunflower oil in body oils
One ingredient, ten products: Sunflower oil in blooming or dispersing bath oils
One ingredient, ten products: Sunflower oil in lotion bars
One ingredient, ten products: Sunflower oil in emulsified scrubs
One ingredient, ten products: Sunflower oil in a zinc oxide cream
One ingredient, ten products: Sunflower oil in a whipped butter

Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating with sunflower oil!

No comments: