Thursday, July 3, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a cleansing conditioner

As our final ingredient in this series on Incroquat BTMS-50, we're taking a look at cleansing conditioners.

Cleansing conditioners are no different than regular rinse off conditioners. I know this might not seem to be right, but if you take some time to do some comparisons - click here for mine - you'll see that something like Wen has the same ingredients as conditioners not listed as being cleansing. This isn't to say there aren't differences between those marketing as cleansing and those that are not. Oftentimes cleansing conditioners don't have silicones and sometimes they have low levels of foaming surfactants, but they might also have silicones and no surfactants. There isn't a specific definition for "cleansing conditioner".

In a class I taught at Voyageur Soap & Candle on hair care products, Chi showed me a product she was using and asked for some help in creating a duplication. We came up with a version that she liked and tweaked further. This is her version. She has African type hair, and is finding it works well for her! We added cocamidopropyl betaine because it might offer a bit more cleansing than the conditioner alone, while she added 5% cetrimonium chloride to be more conditioning and detangling, castor oil for moisturizing, HEC (hydroxyethylcellulose - Lotioncrafter link) for thickening, and green tea extract because it's a great anti-oxidant. Cetyl alcohol is a great addition to any conditioner at 50% of the amount of the behentrimonium methosulfate you're adding to your product. It will increase moisturization and substantivity of the conditioner.

You can change the type of oil if you don't have or don't like castor oil. It is considered a more cleansing oil because it has a different make up in its fatty acids - click here for more information - so if you want those features, then use the castor oil.

CLEANSING CONDITIONER WITH COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE
HEATED WATER PHASE
69.9% distilled water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
5% cetrimonium cloride
0.5% hydroxyethylcellulose
0.10% disodium EDTA

HEATED OIL PHASE
5% castor oil
4% BTMS-25 or Rita BTMS-225
2% cetyl alcohol

COOL DOWN
2% green tea extract
1% Optiphen Plus
0.5% fragrance oil

Use the general conditioner making instructions for this product.

You can use any other preservative that is suitable for water containing products. We originally used liquid Germall Plus in this recipe, but Chi prefers Optiphen Plus. And feel free to try this with Incroquat BTMS-50 if you wish. You will get a thicker product than Chi's version, so if you want it to be thinner, you can take the amount down to 2% and get the same amount of the active ingredient. 

Related posts:

Other posts in this series:
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a rinse off conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a leave in conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in an intense conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part one)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part two)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a body butter
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a sugar scrub (part one)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a sugar scrub (part two)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a silicone based moisturizer

Join me tomorrow for a summary of what we've learned so far! 

8 comments:

Aljonor said...

Hello Susan:

I tried this cleansing conditioner and really like it. I am also Afro-American and found this formula to be very good for my hair as an alternative to shampooing. After I have experimented with it, the only thing I will change is lowering the cetrimonium chloride to 2%. The 5% was not a problem, I just like the lesser amount as it did not make a difference. Thanks again.

Brandi Yates said...

I made this but I also made three more of your recipes for shampoo the same day! I used them all and Im not sure which one is my favorite but my hair feels great! I will have to test them one by one next.

charmscribe said...

I’ve made this recipe twice, first as a 100 g test batch that I loved so much on my hair that I made it again as a 10x batch. What I like is the gentle creaminess that still offers some cleansing. I’m mixed African/European although I’m not sure that describes my hair as everyone has their own unique hair texture. Suffice it to say my hair is thick, very curly, tends to be dry and can be difficult to comb.
I didn’t have hydroxyethylcellulose or disodium EDTA for the first test run so I just added 0.15% to the water phase. My scale doesn’t do tenths of a gram, so I just round up. I used coconut oil instead of castor oil and I used oatmeal, milk and honey as the fragrance. It turned out really great! My hair felt smooth and conditioned afterward and my scalp felt cleansed. It worked great on the kids’ hair too, detangling and gently cleansing at the same time.
I ordered disodium EDTA and hydroxyethylcellulose for my second batch although it makes a nice product without them, so don’t be afraid to make it if you don’t have them. For the second batch I weighed out my oil phase, using coconut oil again. While weighing out my water phase, I ran out of cocomidopropyl betaine with only 6.8%. I didn’t panic and just added 3.2% more water. I continued as normal with the heat and hold, but then decided to add liquid Jordapon. This would mess up my percentages and dilute the batch, but I just wanted to see how it would turn out. I also ran out of green tea extract and substituted with some chamomile extract. I used strawberry fragrance oil for this batch and added a few drops of rosemary extract. It turned out just fine! It is even creamier than the first time with more lather. Easy combing and still just as gentle. The hydroxyethylcellulose thickened it some but it was good with or without it. I love this recipe. Give it a try! Bye, Shannon.

Anonymous said...

I made this conditioner yesterday the only change was in the preservative. Unfortunately my hair didn't like it very much at all. I have made several of your hair conditioners and liked them all The intense conditioner is my favorite.

Anonymous said...

opps! Sorry about that I forgot to leave my name in the above comment
Karen S.

Monique said...

get well Soon.

Whenever you are able, can you try to answer a question for me... do you know the reason for adding BTMS in shampoo. I used your recipe and love it, but was wondering why use BTMS in a shampoo?

Thanks

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,

Can CAPB be added in the cool down phase? Does it definitely need to be heated?
Thanks
Ayanda


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ayanda! Are you talking about the cocamidopropyl betaine? Yes, I would suggest it goes into the heated phase as it will have an impact on the viscosity of the product.