Wednesday, July 2, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in solid scrub bars

Solid scrub bars are a great place to use Incroquat BTMS-50 as it will impart some great conditioning and moisturizing without a lot of greasiness, and it stiffens the bar so it'll keep its shape. Adding Incroquat BTMS-50 to a bar means it's now an emulsified scrub bar.

Why make an emulsified bar instead of just making a lotion bar with some scrubby bits in it? You can add exfoliants like sugar or salt or loofah or jojoba beads (and so on) to a lotion bar, but an emulsified bar will rinse cleaner than one without an emulsifier. An emulsified bar turns to into a lotion when you rinse it off: A non-emulsified bar will not do this and leaves more of an oily film than a lotion-y feeling.

50% cocoa butter
20% mango, shea or other butter
3% cetyl alcohol
4% Incroquat BTMS or Incroquat CR
2% wax of choice - beeswax, soy wax, etc. (For candellia wax, please use 1% as it is very hard.)
3% sodium lactate (optional, bar hardener)
11% oils

2% cyclomethicone (optional, replace with oils)
2% dimethicone (optional, replace with oils)
1% fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E (if you are using oils with less than 6 months' shelf life)
1% Phenonip, Optiphen, or Liquipar Oil (check the suggested usage rate)

Weigh all the ingredients in the heated oil phase in a heatproof container, then place into a double boiler. Heat until the ingredients are melted. Remove from the heat and add the cool down phase. Mix well, add the sugar (or other exfoliant), then glop into molds and place in the fridge or freezer. (Preferably the freezer). Allow to completely set - up to a few hours, depending on the size of the bars - remove from the freezer and unmold. Allow to come to room temperature before using, about 24 hours.

If you want to know the reasons for each ingredient, click here for the Back to Basics: Solid scrub bars post.

You can use another emulsifier for this product, but only Incroquat BTMS-50 will offer the skin conditioning properties associated with positively charged ingredients.

If you don't have sodium lactate, feel free to leave it out. The bar might be a little softer without it. It's not an expensive ingredient and it's a good humectant, so if your budget stretches far enough, I really suggest getting a little bottle of the stuff and trying it in a few different products, like lotions!

If you don't like silicones, consider using a silicone alternative or just increase your oils amount by 4% in the heated oil phase.

Related posts:
Back to basics: Solid scrub bars
Pumpkin seed oil: Solid scrub bars
Road trip essentials: Solid scrub bars (part one)
Road trip essentials: Solid scrub bars (part two)
Formulating with oils: Solid scrub bars
Weekend Wonderings: Troubleshooting solid scrub bars
Formulating anhydrous scrub bars for different skin types
Weekend Wonderings: Can you turn a lotion bar into a scrub bar?
Formulating with mango butter: Solid scrub bars
Using quaternary compounds in scrub bars
Essential oils: Formulating a solid scrub bar for your feet
Using black cocoa butter in a solid scrub bar
Preserving scrubs

Other posts in this series:
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a rinse off conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a leave in conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in an intense conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part one)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part two)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a body butter
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a sugar scrub (part one)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a sugar scrub (part two)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a silicone based moisturizer

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at the last of the ten products we're making with Incroquat BTMS-50 - 


Jan Hunnicutt said...

I hope you are having fun on your time away with your hubby!

Thanks for posting this series, I've been reading and enjoying. When I read this post I ordered some Incroquat BTMS-50, I'm intrigued and want to try your solid scrub =)

Thanks for educating me & challenging my creativity, I love it!


Bonnie in SJ said...

Like you, I am away from home, having a very lovely few days off.

The lure of making a scrub bar with lotion-y goodness, however, causes me for a brief moment to pine for my kitchen lab amidst this vacation loveliness. Everything will be there when I get back, and this will top the to-make list.

Thank you for stoking the creative fires in all us budding cosmetic hobbyists!

Kristen said...

Hi Susan I made your solid body scrub and I used almost the exact recipe but I left out vitamin E and phenonip because I don't have any and these are just for myself to try out, I plan on getting phenonip soon. I used 150g of sugar in my scrub and the 50g cocoa butter, 20g Shea, 3G Cetyl, 4g BTMS 25, 2g beeswax, 3g sodium lactate, 5g neem oil, 5g avocado oil, 2g each cyclomethicone and dimethicone, 2g FO
It has been 6 hours after I made it and it is extremely soft melts in my hand when I pick it up, did I make a mistake should I up the wax

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kristen. Have you put it in the fridge or freezer to set? Is it warm and summery where you live?

Kristen said...

Hi Susan yes I put it in the freezer to set up for about an hour and took it out unmolded. It's been 24 hours and it is not as soft but still softer than I would like it to be, I was hoping to make lots for gifts but am worried about them melting, it is summer here but not as hot as it is in BC, also is it normal for there to be a thin layer of separation of the butter and sugar? Should I add a little more sugar
Thank you for all the help and recipes I love your site.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kristen. I think you might have too much sugar as I generally suggest 100 grams to 100 grams of base. I'm thinking you might want to add more base to it. Give that a try!

Kristen said...

Hi Susan I've been trying the recipe again, i made it exactly the same as yours and instead of the 150g of sugar i did last time i only add the 100g and they turned out nice but still soft and mushy. I made another batch today and i omitted the oils and upped the cocoa butter to 60% and added the other 1% to the BTMS hope this is a little firmer, i also read on one of your comments that over heating can change the structure of the cocoa butter and make it have a lower melting point, so i tried to only heat slightly.

Melanie said...

How do you get the sodium lactate in when there is no water to dissolve it in? I used a little water to dissolve it before adding it and mine is totally separated-salt to the bottom, oil on top.It wouldn't stay mixed long enough to get it into molds. It kept going into oil on top of salt. Oh also, I tried siliconyl beeswax because I had some and wanted to try it. otherwise, your recipe.

Birgit said...

Hey Susan,

I have been eyeing this recipe for a long time but never had all the ingredients. Well, I finally got sodium lactate, and gave it a whirl.
I made the recipe exactly as written. For scrubbies used 40% brown sugar, 40% pink salt and 20% baking soda. The bar is very soft and has a thick layer of butter on top (about half a centimeter). Should I have used more/different scrubbies?
Also, the sodium lactate is 60%, so I used 40% more than the recipe calls for to make up for the difference.
I think I will try making it again with more sodium lactate and more scrubbiest.


Birgit said...

Update on the scrub bar: even though it was soft, I took it to shower after I had "cured" it for a few days. First, I was quite thrilled, the level of scrubbiness was very nice, and it went on well. The problem arose when I tried to rinse it off - I felt like I was covered in thick layer of waxy butter that would not let go of me. I eventually ended up using a different scrub to scrub this butter off of me. And that worked out fine. Except that now I had spent twice the time and twice the scrub to clean myself so that sure wasn't what I expected. So to recap, I did the recipe as written, except used a 60% strength sodium lactate, and upped the amount to have the right amount of it in the scrub, and I did only have BTMS-25, so used that. But from one of your articles I gathered that I could use it in a bar, just would get slightly stickier product. So what went wrong?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Birgit! I'm answering your comment in more detail in Thursday, December 4th's Weekday Wonderings. The short answer is that there may be some differences in using BTMS-25. Or perhaps you just don't like the skin feel of this product?

Birgit said...

Thanks, Susan, for giving my question enough thought to make it into a post. You just made my day :-)
Looking forward to your thoughts on the topic. I did consider the possibility that the skin feel is very personal and maybe it's just me who this recipe isn't a good fit for. Yet I cannot imagine anyone liking what I made (I'm sure your recipe is fine, just what I did with it messed it up somehow). First the separation - on one side of the bar I just had this thick layer of waxy butter with no scrubbies at all. And the bar never really hardened, so I used up 100 gram bar in two showers (yes, I gave it another try in case the first time my skin was somehow off). And the skin feel cannot be right - it wasn't that I felt slightly oily or waxy, I was literally covered in visible layer of sticky butter that did not come off. I still really want this recipe to work, so I may just go ahead and order BTMS 50, and 100% strength sodium lactate.
Thanks again,

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Melanie. I use liquid sodium lactate and it works well in this product. I'm not sure what you mean by separating - the whole product or just the water/sodium lactate part? Can you be more specific?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Melanie! Thanks for the comment. I'll be answering it in Friday, December 5th's Weekday Wonderings. The short answer is to dissolve the sodium lactate in a little water or liquid you're including in the product, like a hydrolyzed protein. As for pouring the product, I have found that if you pour this product too warm, it will separate into layers as you pour it into the molds. My suggestion is to let it cool a bit, add the sugar, and let it sit for a bit, until it is hardening around the edges. Then add it. This seems to work for me. Make sure, too, that you are adding enough sugar to make a paste out of the product!

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,
I don't have sodium lactate and was wondering if I could use butylene glycol as a humectant if I added it to castor oil first.
I really want to try a shower scrub bar and I have BTMS-50 but the skin on my legs is getting 'winter dry' and I would like to include a humectant.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Erin. I'm a bit confused. Why are you adding propylene glycol to castor oil? And yes, you can add humectants or water soluble ingredients to this product as it contains an emulsifier.

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,
I thought I read a post somewhere where it was asked if glycerin could be added and it was a 'no'. It would eventually separate. Maybe that was for a lotion bar though. I'll have to go back and check.
The reason why I was thinking castor oil is because I have butylene glycol and you mentioned here that it is soluble in water and castor oil
Since the scrub bar has an emulsifier, maybe I can use glycerin though? If I can, should I keep the % fairly low?
Or would the butylene glycol be better suited?