Monday, June 30, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in silicone based facial moisturizers

If you like silicones, Incroquat BTMS-50 should be your emulsifier of choice for lotions and moisturizers because it's designed to handle high levels of cyclomethicone and dimethicone. (Check out the data bulletin on this ingredient for more information...)

Why would we want to use silicones in a facial moisturizer? Dimethicone is moisturizing and skin conditioning, and it is an approved barrier ingredient, meaning it will protect our skin from the outside world. Cyclomethicone is a good emollient that can behave as a surface smoothing agent for aging skin, and it will detackify sticky ingredients like glycerin or sorbitol. They both offer a silky, less greasy feeling than our natural oils, which is great in a moisturizer.

You can take pretty much any moisturizer you like and substitute the silicones for the oils and the BTMS for the emulsifier and have a silicone based moisturizer, but we'll modify our base facial moisturizer recipe to be mostly about the silicones. I'm also adding evening primrose oil because it offers some lovely qualities like fatty acids, phytosterols, and polyphenols we won't get in the silicones. You can use any oils you have in your workshop to replace this oil or the silicones, if you wish.

SILICONE BASED MOISTURIZER 
HEATED WATER PHASE
56.5% water
10% aloe vera
10% lavender or other hydrosol
3% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice

HEATED OIL PHASE
5% borage or evening primrose oil
4% Incroquat BTMS-50
2% cetyl alcohol

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
5% dimethicone
2% cyclomethicone
1% Vitamin E
0.5% to 1% preservative of choice

Follow the general lotion making instructions for this product.

Want to make more moisturizers or tweak this one? Check out these posts!
Facial moisturizers: An introduction
Facial moisturizers: Another overview
Facial moisturizer with hemp seed and macadamia nut oil
Facial moisturizer for dry skin
Facial moisturizer for oily skin
Facial moisturizer for aging or wrinkled skin
Facial moisturizer with sunflower oil
Liquid foundation - light coverage
Liquid foundation - medium coverage
Facial moisturizers - silicone based

Moisturizers using BTMS-50 as the emulsifier...
Oil free moisturizer
Oil free foundation
Silicone based moisturizer
Oily skin moisturizer

Other posts in this series:
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a rinse off conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a leave in conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in an intense conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part one)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part two)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a body butter
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a sugar scrub (part one)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a sugar scrub (part two)

2 comments:

Diva Soap said...

Hi Susan,
I'm just making a list of new supplies and researching silicones, so your post has come in perfect time for me.
And ,more importatly, not only because of silicones, but also because I've been wondering myself whether will be possible to make a facial moisturizer for oily skin WITH oils and not to be greasy, but rather light. I've just read your post on this, where you suggest making one without oils, but I still wonder if I could have any light oil in it. I know the cream feel will depend on a emulsifier,too, so what can you suggest as the best choice of emulsifier and oils?
Thanks and have a great holiday time! Maja

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Maja.

Check out these posts...
Incroquat BTMS-50 in facial moisturizers (part one) and Incroquat BTMS-50 in facial moisturizers (part two).

Just find any recipe you want and adjust the oils to choose light ones that are suitable for oily skin. As for the emulsifier, you'll have to try a variety until you find the one you like. Check out the posts I've written on emulsifiers until you find one that sounds like one you like.