Friday, June 27, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in an emulsified scrub (part two)

When we're making an emulsified scrub, Incroquat BTMS-50 is a great emulsifier choice because it offers emulsification as well as skin conditioning. You can use Incroquat BTMS-25 in place of it in this recipe, if you have it.

EMULSIFIED SUGAR SCRUB
10% Incroquat BTMS-50
10% cetyl, cetearyl, or behenyl alcohol or stearic acid (5% cetyl and 5% stearic is very nice)
10% cocoa butter (or other really hard butter)
10% shea or mango butter (or quite soft butter - shea aloe would be great here)
56% oil
1% Phenonip
1% Vitamin E (optional)
2% fragrance or essential oil (optional)

See yesterday's post on emulsified scrubs for directions.

You can make all manner of changes to this recipe! If you like a drier feeling, less greasy product, conside using behenyl alcohol with mango butter instead of cocoa butter or shea butter, with less greasy feeling oils like macadamia nut oil, hazelnut oil, or avocado oil.

LESS GREASY FEELING EMULSIFIED SCRUB
10% Incroquat BTMS-50
10% behenyl alcohol
20% mango butter
25% macadamia nut oil
31% avocado oil
1% Phenonip, Liquipar Oil, or Optiphen
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance oil or essential oil

See yesterday's post on emulsified scrubs for directions.

In the summer, I like to make a lighter version of this scrub. I like my products greasier feeling, so I choose my oils accordingly. I choose the lighter feeling fractionated coconut oil and pumpkin seed oil because I want a film on my skin, but not something that will feel really greasy to the touch. I like to use cocoa butter to give the product some stiffness, and I love babassu oil for its light and dry feeling.  I'm using stearic in this version because the babassu oil can melt at 76˚C, and the stearic will drive that melting point up a bit and keep some stiffness.

SWIFT'S SUMMER VERSION OF THE EMULSIFIED SCRUB
10% Incroquat BTMS-50 (I generally use Rita BTMS-225 here)
5% cetyl alcohol
5% stearic acid
10% cocoa butter
10% babassu oil
31% fractionated coconut oil
25% pumpkin seed oil
1% Phenonip
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance oil (Clementine Cupcake or Sweet Meyer Lemon, both from Brambleberry)

See yesterday's post on emulsified scrubs for directions.

If you wanted to get really exotic, you could switch the cocoa butter for another hard butter like kokum butter or sal butter, and mowrah butter for shea butter. These are good substitutions because of the melting points, but don't necessarily have the same fatty acid profile. Remember that every change you make will have an effect on the viscosity of the product and the skin feel, but this shouldn't stop you from experimenting and finding the combination you like the best!

As we saw in part one yesterday, you can use all manner of exfoliants in an emulsified scrub. I like to use sugar, so I'll use in it my recipes, but you could choose jojoba beads, loofah, various seeds, and so on. You will have to experiment with amounts to see how much exfoliation you like. Be warned about salt, though: It can sting cuts or newly shaved skin.

Don't confuse jojoba beads with microbeads, those little plastic beads that are being banned everwhere. Microbeads don't biodegrade; jojoba beads do.  

So there you have a few ideas on how to make an awesome emulsified sugar scrub that you will love! Join me on Monday, June 30th for some ideas on how to use Incroquat BTMS-50 in silicone based moisturizers.

Related posts:
Formulating with soy bean oil - includes recipe for sugar scrub!
Formulating for dry skin
Formulating for other skin types - sugar scrubs!
Emulsified scrub with Ritamulse SCG
Black cocoa emulsified scrub
Question: How do you know what and when to substitute? (All about emulsifiers and scrubs)
Experiments in the workshop - golden shea sugar scrub
Using behenyl alcohol in sugar scrubs
Experiments in the workshop - using behenyl alcohol in the Ritamulse SCG sugar scrub
Pumpkin seed oil: Making an emulsified scrub
Oil or emulsified scrub?

Facial scrub related posts:
Facial scrubs: Template post and tweaks
Facial scrubs: More tweaks

Other posts in this series:
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a rinse off conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a leave in conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in an intense conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part one)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part two)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a body butter
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a sugar scrub (part one)

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