Thursday, June 26, 2014
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in emulsified scrubs (part one)
Why choose an emulsified scrub over an oil based scrub? The functions of the two scrubs are quite similar - they are both intended to exfoliate the skin with salt, sugar, or other scratchy things and leave behind a nice oily film - with one key difference - the emulsified scrub turns into a lotion type product when water is applied while the oil based scrub is rinsed off when water is applied and doesn't turn into a lotion type product. The oil based product will leave behind an oilier feeling film than the emulsified scrub.
In an oil based scrub, we use only oil soluble ingredients like oils, butters, and esters. In an emulsified scrub, we use oil soluble ingredients like oils and butters, but we can include water soluble ingredients because we're including an emulsifier, so you could add some humectants or proteins or other water soluble ingredients.
In my emulsified scrubs, I like to use a cationic emulsifier like Incroquat BTMS-50 or Rita BTMS-225/Incroquat BTMS-225 because it will condition our skin more than using a non-ionic emulsifier like Polawax and because it offers a less greasy feeling to the product.
As a note, this is a great place to use your Incroquat BTMS-25 because we aren't worried about the stability of the emulsification while the product sits in the container.
EMULSIFIED SUGAR SCRUB
10% emulsifying wax (e-wax, Polawax, BTMS-50, BTMS-25 BTMS-225)
10% cetyl, cetearyl, or behenyl alcohol or stearic acid (5% cetyl and 5% stearic is very nice)
10% cocoa butter (or other really hard butter)
10% shea or mango butter (or quite soft butter - shea aloe would be great here)
1% Vitamin E (optional)
2% fragrance or essential oil (optional)
When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like vanilla pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.
How much sugar to add? I add 3/4 cup per 100 grams of product, which works out to 150 grams of sugar per 100 grams of product. You can add more or less depending upon your preferred level of scrubbiness. I made my last batch with 1/2 cup of sugar or about 100 grams per 100 grams of product, and my friends said it wasn't scrubby enough.
Can you use another exfoliant? Sure, why not? I have used salt before at the same amount I would the sugar and it worked out well. But sugar can sting cuts or newly shaved skin, so I prefer sugar.
Physical exfoliants (part one)
Physical exfoliants (part two)
There are some debates about whether we should use a preservative in our sugar scrubs. I say yes! If you'd like to know more about why there's a debate, check out this post on sugar scrubs and water activity.
preservatives can we use in this product? Because it's an anhydrous or non-water containing product, we have to use a preservative suited for anhydrous products. This means we have a limited selection, including Phenonip, Liquipar Oil, or Optiphen. Using a water soluble preservative like my favoured liquid Germall Plus is on par with using no preservative at all, so please make your choices wisely.
Formulating with soy bean oil - includes recipe for sugar scrub!
Formulating for dry skin
Formulating for other skin types - sugar scrubs!
Emulsified scrub with Ritamulse SCG
Black cocoa emulsified scrub
Question: How do you know what and when to substitute? (All about emulsifiers and scrubs)
Experiments in the workshop - golden shea sugar scrub
Using behenyl alcohol in sugar scrubs
Experiments in the workshop - using behenyl alcohol in the Ritamulse SCG sugar scrub
Pumpkin seed oil: Making an emulsified scrub
Oil or emulsified scrub?
Facial scrub related posts:
Facial scrubs: Template post and tweaks
Facial scrubs: More tweaks
Other posts in this series:
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a rinse off conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a leave in conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in an intense conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part one)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part two)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a body butter
Join me tomorrow as we make a few tweaks to this emulsified scrub!