Wednesday, June 25, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a body butter

We've on the fifth product using Incroquat BTMS-50, and I thought we should take a look at body butters. Before we start, let's define what we mean by a body butter first because there are a few products called body butters that we could create. What I mean by a body butter in this post is an emulsified product that contains quite a lot of butter in the oil phase of the product. It contains water, so it's considered a thick lotion. (The other alternative is to have an anhydrous or non-water containing product that you might see as a whipped butter, which contains only butters and oils. It is not emulsified.)

If you want more information on how to make this product, please check out the Newbie Tuesday body butter post with instructions and general information.

BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPE
HEATED WATER PHASE
61.5% water
3% humectant

HEATED OIL PHASE
10% oils
15% butter
3% cetyl alcohol
6% Incroquat BTMS-50

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil

Check out this very detailed post on how to make this product!

How can we tweak this recipe? As we saw with the facial moisturizer, you can tweak the water soluble ingredients or the oil soluble ingredients to suit your specific skin needs and to use what's in your workshop. As I've written quite a few recipes for modifying body butters, I'm going to refer you to the list below because there are literally thousands of variations we could make, and I've covered at least 16 possibilities below. If you have any questions about the variation you'd like to make, please comment below!

As a note, for any recipe you find calling for another emulsifier - Polawax, e-wax, Ritamulse SCG, and so on - you can substitute Incroquat BTMS-50 at the same amount. You can even reduce it, but that takes a bit of knowledge of how thick the product is in the first place. For any emulsifier - except Ritamulse SCG - just substitute it 1:1 for the emulsifier. So if you see 6.5% emulsifier in the recipe, use 6.5% Incroquat BTMS-50. I generally use Ritamulse SCG at 8% of a recipe, but that's a bit high for Incroquat BTMS-50 and will leave you with a really really thick product. You might like that, so keep that level if you wish, but my suggestion is to go with 6% and add 2% to the distilled water amount to compensate.

Body butter related posts:
Lotions: Body butter with speciality ingredients
Formulating with oils: Body butter
Lotions: Body butter creams
Newbie Tuesday: You made a body butter! Questions?
Cocoa butter in a body butter
Formulating for your skin type: Body butter
Formulating for your skin type: Body butter for dry skin
Formulating for your skin type: Body butter for oily skin
Formulating for your skin type: Body butter for wrinkled skin
Formulating for dry skin: Making a body butter
Duplicating products: Boots Organic Rich Body Butter
More fun with the HLB system: Making a body butter
Adapting your products for summer: Making a body butter
Using cationic quats in other products: Making a body butter
Fun with hydrolyzed protein: A body butter recipe
Learning to formulate: Lotion with minimally processed ingredients

Other posts in this series:
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a rinse off conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a leave in conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in an intense conditioner
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part one)
One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in a facial moisturizer (part two)

5 comments:

Anonymous said...

Just wanted to say I'm loving this series Susan.
Thx,
Juliep

ArtCreators said...

Can we substitute the use of cetyl alcohol with something else?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Art Creators! I've written up my complete answer to your question in my Weekend Wonderings for Saturday, July 12th. The short answer - yes, you can substitute it with something else or leave it out entirely.

ArtCreators said...

Thank you very much for your answer. I always try to make cosmetics with less chemicals that is why i don't like cetyl. Your page for the complete answer says
"Sorry, the page you were looking for in this blog does not exist." I would like to read it. Thanks again

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Art Creators. As I mention above, it'll be posted tomorrow.

As for not wanting to use cetyl alcohol, you know it's found in our bodies and is derived from oils and butters?

As for chemicals...welcome to the blog. I encourage you to take a look at what the definition of what chemicals are as they are everything we see, touch, feel, taste, and love in the world. The word means that one or more elements have come together to create something. Your hair, water, trees - everything is composed of chemicals. I think you mean "synthetic", and if you look at cetyl alcohol, you'll see that although it is a processed ingredient, it is no less synthetic than something like emulsifying wax. Saying that though, you are using an emulsifying wax and preservative, right? (Beeswax using an emulsifier, and preservatives - not citric acid, Vitamin E, or GSE - aren't optional when you make water containing products! Just wanted to make sure!)