As a note, I don't recommend using Incroquat BTMS-25 or Rita BTMS-225 in oil-in-water lotions as you could experience separation. I know there are people out there who successfully make lotions with BTMS-25 or BTMS-225 all the time, it's not as fool proof as BTMS-50 and I hate suggesting you make something that I can't guarantee will work for you. If you want to try using it, I suggest increasing the emulsifier by up to 50% of the amount I use it in the product. (This will make it thicker and waxier than my recipe thanks to the added cetearyl alcohol.)
What kind of lotion should we make? You can make any type you want with this emulsifier, but I'm thinking we could make a nice matte feeling facial moisturizer with some fancy oils and ingredients. As usual, feel free to make alterations to this recipe based on what you have in your workshop.
Because the oil phase is so small in this moisturizer - 10% - I have to rely upon a lot of water soluble ingredients to give me the oomph I want in a moisturizer. What kinds of things could I use? Ask yourself what you want it to do!
I tend to have skin that like to go red thanks to my rosacea, so I'm going to choose things that reduce redness or inflammation. I have acne prone skin, so I tend to choose ingredients that will help with breakouts.
DMAE, remove 2% from the distilled water in the phase. If you add 2% niacinamide, 5% Multifruit BSC, and 5% lady's mantle extract, then remove 12% from the distilled water amount.
Let's talk about the math for a minute. In the above example, 2% + 5% + 5% = 12% total. We want our product recipes to total 100%. Anything we add to a product takes the total over 100%, so we need to subtract somewhere, so we remove that added percentage from the water amount because removing water doesn't have a profound effect on the product. It might be a bit thicker because you've removed water, but the recipe will total 100%. The product below doesn't total 100% because of the difference in the humectant amount and the preservative.
BASIC FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE
77.5% water (you can replace 10% to all of the water with hydrosols or aloe vera)
up to 5% humectant of choice
2% hydrolyzed protein
4% Incroquat BTMS-50
2% cetyl alcohol
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
Follow the general lotion making instructions for this product.
Want to make more moisturizers or tweak this one? Check out these posts!
- Facial moisturizers: An introduction
- Facial moisturizers: Another overview
- Facial moisturizer with hemp seed and macadamia nut oil
- Facial moisturizer for dry skin
- Facial moisturizer for oily skin
- Facial moisturizer for aging or wrinkled skin
- Facial moisturizer with sunflower oil
- Liquid foundation - light coverage
- Liquid foundation - medium coverage
- Facial moisturizers - silicone based
Moisturizers using BTMS-50 as the emulsifier...