Friday, June 20, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in intense conditioners

This week we took a look at Incroquat BTMS-50 as a conditioning agent and emulsifier. We'll focus on the awesome conditioning powers it can offer our hair for a few more days before we get into what it can bring to our lotions.

What makes a conditioner an intense conditioner? We tend to use more BTMS-50 and we tend to include an oil or butter. (This isn't a hard and fast rule as there are no hard and fast rules in defining conditioners.) Oils aren't conditioning, they are moisturizing. So when we add oils, we're doing it to moisturize our scalp and to create a film on the hair strand to make it easier to comb and to trap in water. We can use any oil we wish for this application, but coconut oil is generally my first choice due to the great studies that have been conducted on it and because it's so inexpensive. You can choose to use any oil you wish for this and other recipes.

Related posts:
What's the difference between moisturizing and hydrating?
What oils are good for our hair?
Coconut oil? Coconut oil! 

Is there a reason to leave a conditioner on your hair for a long time or overnight? Not really. Studies have shown that conditioners take about two minutes to do their job, but there can be a good reason to leave it on to help the oils moisturize your scalp or hair strand and to let them create a film. If you want to leave it on for a long time, have at it.

In this product, I'm adding liquid aloe vera to be soothing for my scalp, as well as for its ability to create a film on my skin and hair. It'll also behave as a humectant, drawing water from the atmosphere to my hair and scalp. I'm going to add peppermint hydrosol because it's great for circulation and a light fragrance. The astringency is nice and some people can feel a light tingle with it. If you want more fragrance or tingle, add up to 1% peppermint essential oil into the cool down phase.

If you have frizzy hair, leave out the aloe vera and glycerin. If you have oily hair, remove the oil and cetyl alcohol, and think about using rosemary hydrosol, powdered extract, or essential oil in this recipe.

I'm adding cetrimonium chloride at 2% to the heated oil phase to help with detangling. If you don't have this, feel free to leave it out and add 2% to the distilled water amount. If you use cetrimonium chloride, the product will be thinner. If you don't use it, this will be a thicker product. Either way, this is definitely a product you want to put into a jar!

49% distilled water
10% aloe vera liquid
10% peppermint hydrosol (or hydrosol of choice)
3% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice

7% BTMS-50
3.5% cetyl alcohol
2% cetrimonium chloride
10% coconut oil (or oil of choice)

2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or preferred preservative)
1% fragrance or essential oil

Follow the general conditioner making instructions for this recipe.

If you want to use Incroquat BTMS-25 or Rita BTMS-225 in this recipe, please click here for those modifications. 

If you want to add some silicones to this recipe like we did with the rinse off conditioner recipe from the other day, just add 2% dimethicone and 2% cyclomethicone in the cool down phase and remove 4% from the distilled water amount to compensate. You could use a silicone substitute here like broccoli oil at up to 5% in the heated oil phase, yerba santa glycoprotein (FSS link) at 5% in the cool down phase, or some of the other silicone alternatives in the appropriate phase.

If you are interested in broccoli seed oil, check out Ingredients to Die For or From Nature with Love or at Aromantic (UK). I make no guarantees by putting these links here, and I warn you that it does smell like broccoli! 

Also, feel free to add any hydrosols or floral waters to the heated water phase in place of the distilled water. Or feel free to remove the ones I'm using and replace them with others or with more distilled water.

For more hair care and conditioner recipes, please visit the hair care section of the blog!

Join me on Monday when we have some fun with more conditioner recipes before taking a look at some lotion recipes we can make with Incroquat BTMS-50.

No comments: