Tuesday, June 17, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in rinse off conditioners

It's super easy to make a conditioner with Incroquat BTMS-50. You can use anywhere between 3% to 10% Incroquat BTMS-50 with a preservative at the suggested usage rate and up to 100% water. There, you have a conditioner. But you don't have all the lovely things we want in a conditioner, like a protein or panthenol or a humectant and so on. But it really is that easy!

How can we use Incroquat BTMS-50 to make an awesome rinse off conditioner? First, we think about what we want the conditioner to do. Generally, we want a conditioner to make our hair feel soft and manageable. We'd like to make combing and brushing easier. And we want our hair to look healthy and, if possible, shiny. Incroquat BTMS-50 will help with the detangling, increased ease of combing and brushing, and increased softness, but we have to do a little more work to get our hair to be shiny and healthy looking.

If you have dry hair, your first thought should be about moisturizing. We can add oils for that reason, but there are film formers and humectants to consider. Yes, oils are moisturizing, but they're about trapping water into the hair strand or moisturizing your scalp. They aren't going to bring more water to your hair. That's where humectants come into the picture. Humectants draw water from the atmosphere to our hair or skin and hydrate.

Aloe vera liquid is a great inclusion in a conditioner as it offers the film forming and moisturizing we want in a product. It can make frizzy hair frizzier, so only use it if you aren't worried about poofy hair. I'm including peppermint hydrosol in this product because it can add a little tingle to your scalp and smells quite nice. It's suitable for all hair types.

Hydrolyzed proteins are proteins that have been hydrolyzed to be more water soluble and more attracted to your hair. Silk proteins tend to be small enough to penetrate the hair strand and moisturize from within while oat protein tends to be too large and will form a film on your hair strand instead, trapping in moisture. Use these at up to 2% in the heated water phase.

For the humectant, I like to use glycerin as it's inexpensive and easy to find at our suppliers and even local drug stores. (Again, if you have frizzy hair, this isn't a great inclusion.) Panthenol is another humectant, although it seems like us frizzy girls can handle it. It's a great addition at up to 2% in the cool down phase as it offers film forming for our hair strands and moisturizing and wound healing to our scalps. It increases the pliability of our hair strands, making them softer but stronger.

49% distilled water
10% peppermint hydrosol
10% aloe vera liquid
10% chamomile hydrosol
2% hydrolyzed protein
3% glycerin

5% BTMS-50
2.5% cetyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol)
5% coconut oil

2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or preservative of choice)
1% fragrance oil or essential oil

Follow the conditioner making instructions for this product. This product probably isn't recommended for oily hair as you're adding oils and cetyl alcohol to the product and isn't great for frizzy hair because of the aloe vera. Feel free to remove those ingredients if you have those hair types, or visit the hair care section of the blog to see other recipes that will work for you.

As a quick note, if you want to make a peppermint and almond oil conditioner like the famous so-called cleansing conditioner, just replace the almond oil for the coconut oil and add a bit of peppermint essential oil in the cool down phase. 

If you want to use Incroquat BTMS-25 or Rita BTMS-225 in this recipe, please click here for those modifications. 

If you want to add some silicones to this recipe, just add 2% dimethicone and 2% cyclomethicone in the cool down phase and remove 4% from the distilled water amount to compensate. You could use a silicone substitute here like broccoli oil at up to 5% in the heated oil phase, yerba santa glycoprotein (FSS link) at 5% in the cool down phase, or some of the other silicone alternatives in the appropriate phase.

If you are interested in broccoli seed oil, check out Ingredients to Die For or From Nature with Love or at Aromantic (UK). I make no guarantees by putting these links here, and I warn you that it does smell like broccoli! 

Also, feel free to add any hydrosols or floral waters to the heated water phase in place of the distilled water. Or feel free to remove the ones I'm using and replace them with others or with more distilled water.

As an aside, why do I tell you to remove water from the distilled water amount? Our goal is to make the lotion ingredients total 100%. If we add 10% aloe vera, our recipe will total 110%. So we remove 10% from the water amount to make the grand total 100%. If we add 2% dimethicone and 2% cyclomethicone, we remove 4% from the distilled water amount. We remove the water amount because it won't affect the recipe much. If we removed another ingredient, say the emulsifier - Incroquat BTMS-50 - or the oil, it would affect the recipe too much. Remember, though, when we remove water, we generally make the product thicker, unless we are adding more watery type ingredients.

Join me tomorrow as we make an intense conditioner with BTMS-50.


Claire said...

I really love BTMS on my conditioners, they really add that silky-soft feeling under the shower rinse that no other ingredients can give. I wonder if I omit the Aloe Vera, would the resulting conditioner be thinner? Can I add glycerine instead of Aloe Vera? Many thanks for the recipe!

mllaurie said...

I didn't realise aloe and glycerine could have those effects; that's great to know! I disagree about the oils being bad for oily hair. Because I have an oily scalp, I tend to wash more and need a really moisturising conditioner. I only use it on the hair, though, and avoid rubbing it into my scalp.

Rivergirl said...

Excited to give this a whirl!

Anonymous said...

Dear Susan,
Is there different grades of mineral oil? Like is the mineral oil from lotioncrafter or personal formulator different from the ones from drug store that's used as a laxative, can the one from drug store be used for body care as well?

Ronnie said...

Hi Susan

I substituted the BTMS-50 for BTMS-25 in an intense/deep conditioner and the emulsion stayed stable the only thing is it turned out VERY VERY thick (i did use 3% Cetyl Alcohol).I used 8% BTMS-25 plus 3%Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, 10% oils, about 70% water phase and the rest panthenol, essential oil and polyquat.

Rolanda said...

Hi Susan. I have a question about this formula. How come you used two humectants: glycerin and panthenol? Why didn't you choose to use just one or the other?