Monday, June 16, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50

Way back when I asked if you wanted to share what interested you, AMJ suggested that I write a few posts detailing ten different ways to use an ingredient in our products. I think this is a super idea, so let's take a look at ten different ways we can use Incroquat BTMS-50 in our products!

What is Incroquat BTMS-50 (INCI: Behentrimonium methosulfate (and) cetyl alcohol (and) butylene glycol)? It is a positively charged or cationic emulsifier that we use to bring oil and water together to create lotions. Because it is positively charged, it is used in hair care products as a conditioning agent that will coat the hair strand to reduce friction, reduce combing forces, and increase conditioning of our hair. It contains 50% of the active ingredient, behentrimonium methosulfate. The cetyl alcohol will help boost the conditioning power of the behentrimonium methosulfate and offers thickening to the product. The butylene glycol is a humectant that can draw water from the atmosphere to our hair or skin.

The most obvious things we can make with Incroquat BTMS-50 are hair conditioners because the positive charge of the behentrimonium methosulfate adsorbs to a hair strand to condition said strand. (Click here for more information on how conditioners work and here for a post on adsorbing and substantivity.) But Incroquat BTMS-50 is a great emulsifier that can work for our emulsified products, like lotions, creams, body butters, and moisturizers, as well as emulsified sugar and salt scrubs. It offers a powdery and less greasy feel to an emulsified product.

What about Incroquat BTMS-25 or Rita BTMS-225? This ingredient has an INCI of Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol. It contains cetearyl alcohol instead of cetyl alcohol, which also boosts the conditioning power of the behentrimonium methosulfate. It also helps thicken the product, but offers a slightly waxier feel than cetyl alcohol. It contains 25% of the active ingredient, behentrimonium methosulfate. You can substitute BTMS-25 for BTMS-50 in most products, except where there are high levels of oils in products like lotions, body butters, and moisturizers. So you can substitute it for anything other than an emulsified product, like a lotion. I'll tell you when you can substitute this one for the other in this series of posts.

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at making rinse off conditioners with Incroquat BTMS-50.


Anonymous said...

Dear Susan,
So the Behentrimonium Methosulfate is just a conditioner it does not help to thicken the lotion, the thickener is the cetyl, is that right?

Anonymous said...

I think this is a great idea-'one ingredient-ten products. I can't wait=). Thank you so much for ALL you do and share, Navajo.

Anonymous said...

Is this a natural ingredient, I new to this.

Anonymous said...

Sorry, I meant to write that I'm new to this!

res ipsa loquitur said...

Hi Susan,
I am so loving your blog. I am a recovering PhD geochemist that is looking to learn as much as I can about cosmetic chemistry and product formulation, specifically formulating products for frizzy hair in ultra high humidity environments like New Orleans, my home. My inspiration is my 11 year old daughter and her tangled frizzy hair. Your blog has been a wealth of knowledge. Thank you.
I have been reading about two C40 quats by Croda called Incroquat™ Behenyl 18-MEA and Incroquat™ Behenyl 18-MEA-40. They are made of BTMS, CA, and a C10-C40 polymer. I searched your blog for info on them but found nothing. Are you familiar with them and are you using them? There is a cool article (Croda sponsored study) that looked at the effect of a 1.5% solution of the quats on hair (before and after micrographs). It is pretty cool. Here is the link:

I look forward to any information you may have.