Monday, June 2, 2014

Emulsifiers: A lotion with Montanov 68 as the emulsifier

Let's take a look a today at a recipe using Montanov 68 as the emulsifier. As we learned last week, this emulsifier creates a liquid crystal emulsion, which can be a good thing for delivering actives to our skin and reducing transepidermal water loss.

I decided to use this emulsifier with a lotion recipe I've made many times, this pumpkin seed oil recipe. I have made it with LotionPro 165 and tried to make it with Olivem 1000 as well. I figured that I should only change one ingredient, that being the emulsifier, to give me the chance to compare.

63% distilled water
3% glycerin
2% silk amino acids
0.5% allantoin

4% Montanov 68
2% cetyl alcohol
2% IPM
21% oils - 7% pumpkin seed, 8% rice bran oil, and 6% evening primrose oil

0.5% Vitamin E
2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil

Heat and hold your oil to 76˚C for 20 minutes, then pour the water phase into the oil phase and stick blend until the emulsion forms. Switch to a mixer or something that stirs instead of the stick blender after the emulsion forms. Allow to cool. Bottle.

How did I like this recipe? It was shiny on my skin, but not too shiny. It was a tiny bit sticky, but not excessive. It feels like it sinks in well, but left a light layer of oil on my skin. Putting it on, there was a really long play time, which is the time it takes to rub the lotion into my skin. I wrote "very glidy" on my notes. It didn't feel waxy at all, and the lotion itself felt soft.

If I compare it to the one with Polawax, it was much lighter and not as waxy. If I compare it to the one with Lotionpro 165, I would say it was quite similar. I think the Lotionpro was much lighter.

I asked Beth to tell me what she thought. She said she liked it for her face and body - she found she didn't break out and she has acne prone skin - but for her hands as the oil seemed to sit the on the surface. (That's what I thought, too!)

I think this is a great all around emulsifier, and it is well suited for facial moisturizers as liquid crystal emulsifiers are thought to help ingredients penetrate into the stratum corneum better. What could you do with it? Why, make a facial moisturizer of course, filled with loads of wonderful actives! You can take this recipe above and switch out the oils for ones your facial skin likes more, add some cosmeceuticals, actives, extracts, and other fancy things, and create an awesome facial product! May I suggest this, though? Make sure you preserve it well. Use your preservative at the maximum possible and, if you're using a "natural" preservative like Leucidal, double up with another preservative to be on the safe side!

Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating!


Leanne R said...

Hi Susan,

I love your blog, and have learned so much here. This post confuses me, as the total percentages add up to 101.5%
Is the fragrance and preservative calculated as "extras"? In other words, as 1% and 0.5% of the 100% "other" ingredients?
Many thanks,

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Leanne! I made a mistake in my math. They aren't extras; I messed up when calculating. Just make this recipe as is or adjust it to be 100%. Either way is good!

Leanne R said...

Thanks for your quick reply!
I figured the differences would be small. In general, is it the water that you adjust once the other ingredients have been factored in?

Bindu said...

Hi Susan, I find lotions with montanov 68 little thick, is there a way to get more fluid lotions so that I can pack them in non squeezable flip top cap bottles.
I changing packaging is a solution but I have only those bottles available here.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Bindu! Can you increase the water amount in the recipe? Or remove any thickeners you're using? I found this recipe was slightly thinner than the one I have made with Polawax and Lotionpro 165.

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,

i just had a bit of an emulsifier revelation...please let me know if you think i'm out to lunch!

I have always used ritamulse emulsifier in my lotions. I recently made 3 new variations of my base recipe using ewax, I made the recipe using the same oil, butter and thickener percentages, the only difference was the slight reduction in emulsifier and slight increase in water % to make up the difference.

All three of the lotions turned out a lot thicker and i couldn't figure out why. They were still nice creams but thick enough that i was having a hard time squeezing it out of my bottle!

I thought about it for a couple of days and then it occurred to me that it might be the emulsifier having a different impact on the thickness of the product. Has this been your experience? If so, can you tell me whether Polawax will have a similar thickening effect as the ewax, or whether it will be more like the ritamulse? Polawax is next on my list to try.

I have noted that i should reduce the cetyl to 1% when using ewax from 3%) if i want a thinner hand lotion.



Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nicole. Changing the emulsifier will definitely change the viscosity, texture, skin feel, and a hundred different things. As you can read in this post, I've tried this recipe with a number of different emulsifiers and they feel very different.

Diva Soap said...

My recipe with Montanov 68 for this week: I made a lotion, pretty basic recipe with a single oil (sesame) and a facial cream. Both are very thick, but nice.
So, my cream is, as follows:

Oil phase:
4% MOntanov 68
9% Macadamia oil
9% Rosehip oil
8% Argan oil

Water phase:
2% Sodium Lactate
.0% Allantoin
62.5 % aloe vera

.8 % Geogard 221
1% vitamine E
2% Panthenol
1% elemi essential oil

The cream is very rich and, with 30% of oil phase is rather night, that daily treat. My skin is oily, but this cream wasn't too heavy for me. Spreaded in a thn layer, it feels good and conditioning.
I didn't add any Cetyl due to great amount of Cetearyl in MOntanov and it really doesn't need any thickening ingredient.

My lotion also consisted of 30 % of oils and had the same consistency like the cream. The lotion, however had Cetyl added at 2%, but no significant difference in consistency was between the two!

I had no problems with preserving it with Geogard 221 (but, who am I to tell that without having it tested!!??).
Just for the sake of safety, next time I'll use Liquid Germal Plus (which I finally got)!


Nic Huang said...

Hi Susan,

I've been tinkering repeatedly with Seppic Montanovs (68, 82, 202) as well as Olivem 1000 and experienced major issues with soaping effect, even in small percentages. I've avoided extra fatty alcohols & unstable vegetable oils and tested this simple formula

Oil Phase
18% Jojoba oil
3% M68/Olivem 1000
Water Phase
0.8% Hyaluronic Acid Powder, pre-dissolved in...
4% Propanediol
Q.S Aqua

The two phases were heated to 80 degrees celsius and held for 5 mins, homogenized at high speed for 5 mins, then stirred at low speed till room temp. The white streaks are still very apparent upon spreading.

I know silicon oils can help by reducing surface tension but I really don't want to have them in my formula. Simulgreen 18-2 solves the issue but the sensory profile was quite light/monotonic and not rich/lux enough for a night cream.

Did you have the same experience with M68 during your creations? Any ideas on how to improve?