Thursday, May 29, 2014
Emulsifiers: Olivem 1000
liquid crystal emulsifiers. (Data bulletin can be found here.) Its INCI is cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate. It is an ECOcert ingredient.
The suggestion is to use 2% to 3% for light fluid lotions where the Olivem 1000 is the only emollient in the oil phase, 4% to 5% for 5% to 25% oils, and 6% to 8% to be a self emulsifying system. It's suggested that we use glyceryl stearate at 1% to 2% in the oil phase or xanthan gum at 0.2% or carbomer at up to 0.1% in the water phase to increase stability. It's also suggested to use cetearyl alcohol as the fatty alcohol in the oil phase.
Heat and hold your water phase at 70˚C and your oil phase to 70˚C to 75˚C. Add the oil phase to the water phase, then mix with high shear mixer, like a stick blender for this. Mix until the emulsion is formed, then a few minutes or so, then walk away until it reaches the cool down phase, then briefly mix again. I've seen it suggested that you mix the post-cool down phase lotion by hand as it is possible to overmix this lotion. It can take up to 24 hours for it to reach its final viscosity.
I've read that this emulsifier isn't a big fan of proteins and some hydrosols can cause clumping. You can use this emulsifier for lotions with pH 3 to 12, which is to say just about any lotion you can think of making!
I've seen suggestions that heating and holding your phases together - meaning we put all the heated ingredients into one container without consideration for an oil or water phase - then mixing in another container might increase stability.
This study indicates that it doesn't form a lot of liquid crystal structures, which I thought interesting.
In light of this, rather than asking you to join me tomorrow to make a recipe using this emulsifier, I'm going to ask those of you who have made lotions with this emulsifier to offer your recipes and suggestions for stability. I would like very specific recipes, meaning it should include percentages or weights and the exact process you followed. I will draw names from this post for a copy of the e-book of your choice as a thank you for sharing your knowledge with the readers of this blog.
In the meantime, here are a few recipes I found at suppliers I trust...
Avena Oat Natural Lotion (The Herbarie)
Olive Tree Skin Renew Lotion (The Herbarie)
Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating!