Friday, May 30, 2014

Emulsifiers: Montanov 68

Montanov 68 (aka at Sugarmulse or Glucomulse, might be Vegetal 68) is another liquid crystal emulsifier we can find at our suppliers. The INCI is cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside. It is an ECOcert emulsifiers. Its suggested usage is 1% to 5% in the oil phase, and I've seen it noted that we want to use about 25% oil phase in the product for best results.

How do we use this emulsifier? Heat and hold your oil to 76˚C for 20 minutes, then pour the water phase into the oil phase and stick blend until the emulsion forms. Switch to a mixer or something that stirs instead of the stick blender after the emulsion forms. (I've seen a hand whisk suggested!)

This emulsifier can handle extreme pH ranges - I've seen pH 3 to 12 suggested - and it is fine with cationic ingredients, like cationic polymers. And it forms liquid crystal emulsion, as per this paper.

Now here's the down side of this emulsifier. It was hard to preserve. This is the lotion six months later. I know, right. Gross. If you are going to use this ingredient, make sure you are using your preservative at the maximum amount, and even then consider using a back up preservative. I used 0.5% liquid Germall Plus in this product, and it went off. I tried 1% Germaben II in a more recent batch and it was fine. This is not the place to use something like Leucidal or one of the more "natural" preservatives as they simply can't handle this product. You'll see in my recipe on Monday that I didn't use a ton of botanical ingredients in the lotion, like extracts and hydrosols, and I still had this result. Having said this, only this container went off. The others were fine.

Now that I have you all interested in this emulsifier, join me on Monday for my pumpkin seed oil recipe with Montanov 68!


Bindu said...

I dont see any preservative issue with Montanov 68. Do u have any technical details on it??

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

This is based on my experience and the experience of others. I couldn't find much literature on this emulsifier, but it isn't noted on what I could find.

Gillian said...

Seriously... I thought the preservation issue was me! I was trying to go back and figure out what I might have done wrong. So yes, I agree that it is hard to preserve. I can't go back to Germal, etc. much as I would like to, as I am wooing health food stores.

Thank you so much for all of your tireless work!

Emma Goldman said...

According to this roundup:

"parabens... can be inactivated by non-ionic emulsifiers"

According to the abstract in this paper,

"Studies on various cosmetic formulations containing nonionic surfactants indicate that sorbic acid (0.2 per cent w/w) and combinations of sorbic acid and hexylene glycol are effective preservatives."

I'm currently trying to find a reliable way of preserving a formulation with cetearyl glucoside and honeyquat. currently failing, almost everything seems to be incompatible with one or both of them. Only potassium sorbate seems to be acceptable at the moment so I'm considering trying that at 0.39%(aq) at pH 4.5. (might that be irritant? I can't find any data indicating one way or the other at that concentration. Any pointers or advice would be much appreciated!

Much love as always for such an excellent blog!

Emma Goldman

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Emma. I mentioned that topic in this post - Inactivation of preservatives by non-ionic ingredients - which can be found in the preservatives section of the blog. Have you considered something like liquid Germall Plus, which is my favourite preservative, or Germaben II, which should have no problems. Check out the preservative section of the blog for more information.

Bindu said...

Hi, I use only PE 9010 so I didn't have much issues.

B from Brussels, Belgium said...

I recently bought and tested montanov 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside). Not sure if it is also difficult to preserve. So far I had no issues. The emulsion has a different look and feel compared to e.g. Olivem 1000. So maybe it has a different chemical structure than Montanov 68.

Nice thing about Montanov 202: a light and powdery lotion, and my sensitive skin seems to tolerate it.

Alkis said...

Hi there, I am interested in using Montanov emulsifiers 202, 68, L for their liquid crystals properties. Is there any literature, instructions ? Recommended dosage? I could not find anything from Seppic's web site. Any help is greatly appreciate it. Thank you.

Izabela Gannon said...

Hey Suzan,
I recently bought montanov 68 and tried a few simple recipes, and I couldn't gain the right consistency of the emulsion. Always is very runny, and after few hours totataly separates. I used 4% of montanov, 2% cetyl alcohol, and I tried with different persantage of oils, 5%, and 15% of oils. And only WATER in water phase. What am I doing wrong? The way, the time of mixing perhaps? Any ideas?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Izabela! Could you please share your complete recipe in percentages and your exact process, including temperatures and how you mixed it, and we may be able to help further.

Mya Symons said...

I am trying to make a shampoo that I can put a small amount of oil in. I have very dry hair and so does my daugher, so it would not be a problem. We are trying to use ingredients that score less than 2 on EWG and avoid silicones.

My questions are this: Could Cetearyl Glucoside be combined with something like Glyceryl Oleate to create a shampoo with a small amount of oil in it (I am going to use a non ionic surfactant)? Would the product end up being too thick or separating? Can these two ingredients be combined together in a product safely?

Ann F. said...

Hello Susan,
This issue I had when I replaced my OliveEm with Montonav 68 was a very curdled, lumpy emulsion at first. It did eventually smooth out, but was very disconcerting. I could not figure out if this is how this always behaves, or it was not working with another ingredient. As far as the preservation, I did use .005% potassium Sorbate along with my German plus and now I'm waiting to see what happens. I do like the feel, but still prefer the Olive Em, I think!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I'm sorry, Mya, but I can't help here because the parameters of the ingredients you want to use is simply too limited and I can't investigate every ingredient through the EWG.

Hi Ann! What do you think of it now?

Be Natural Organics said...

Hi Susan!
How do I find out the difference between Montanov L, Montanov 68, and Montanov 202? Does it make a difference which one you use?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Be Naturals Organics! Look at the INCI names! They are different kinds of emulsifiers. Check the data sheets for how the manufacturer intends you to use them.