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In my humble opinion, Polawax is the easiest of the emulsifiers for lotion making. We add it to the heated oil phase and let it melt with our oils, butters, and other oil soluble ingredients. When we're done heating and holding, we can add the heated oil phase to the heated water phase or vice versa - either way works. Mix with a stick blender or hand mixer or other mechanized method. And
We generally use Polawax at 25% of the oil phase of our lotions. So if you have 20% oils, you would use it at 5% (20 x 0.25 = 5). If you have 30% oils, you would use it at 7.5% (30 x 0.25 = 7.5). And so on.
Polawax can handle up to 50% oils in the oil phase, and it can be used as low as 2% and as high as 10%, although I've found 4% or higher is more stable.
I use Polawax as my default emulsifier when I'm creating recipes, which means I figure out my oil phase, then add 25% of that in Polawax. Let's take a look at a sample recipe today and figure out how we can adjust it for the other emulsifiers we might use. I'm using an oil phase of 24%, and I'm basing it on my basic 70% water recipe, which is the base recipe I tend to use when I'm formulating something from scratch.
BASIC LOTION RECIPE
HEATED WATER PHASE (68.5% of the lotion)
HEATED OIL PHASE (29% of the lotion)
COOL DOWN PHASE (1.5% of the lotion)
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% preservative (I use liquid Germall Plus)
Use the basic lotion making instructions for this product.
heated oil phase and the cool down phase - and figure out how much 25% of that might be. (This would include things like silicones in the cool down phase.)
Join me tomorrow as we take a look at emulsifying wax NF and how to use it!