Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Blackberry seed oil

Blackberries are one of those berries that you can only really seem to get from picking them fresh from the bush yourself. We have so many bushes growing around our house, but they seem to be filled with thorns intent on protecting those luscious berries from my grasp! But I shall endure the pokes and stings to get my berries!

Blackberry seed oil (INCI: Rubus Fruticosus (blackberry) seed oil or Rubus Villosus (blackberry) seed oil) has an interesting fatty acid make up with around 3% in palmitic acid (C16:0), around 2% in stearic acid (C18:0), 14% to 17% in oleic acid (C18:1), a whopping 61% to 70% linoleic acid (C18:1), and around 17% in linolenic acid (C18:3). All this linoleic acid means it can oxidize quickly and has a shelf life of 6 months, possibly up to 9 months. It would be great for skin that needs some help repairing skin's barrier mechanisms thanks to all that linoleic acid!

Blackberry seed oil has some great levels of tocopherols (Vitamin E) at 1639 ppm, which is why it might have a slightly longer shelf life than all that linoleic and linolenic acid might indicate. It has tons of phytosterols at 4037 ppm. (Remember that phytosterols do all kinds of great things for your skin. Click here to read more.) It contains about 170 ppm squalene, which will penetrate the skin to offer moisturizing and softening.  It contains some polyphenols in the form of ellagic acid (see the post on raspberry oil for more on this...) and

In all the listings about blackberry seed oil, I see things about it having high levels of Vitamin C. Unfortunately, I couldn't confirm this with any studies I could find. This doesn't mean it isn't true, it just means none of the studies or information I found mentioned the Vitamin C levels of this oil. It does contains carotenoids at 33 ppm, which is evident by the yellow colour of the oil.

What do I think of this oil?

I would consider this to be an exotic oil based on the cost. The Formulator Sample Shop offers it at $9.00 for 80 ml, Lotioncrafter at $6.75 for 30 ml, and From Nature With Love at $10.01 for 15 ml. Gracefruit in the UK offers it for 4 pounds for 30 ml.

Summary for blackberry seed oil:
INCI: Rubus Fruticosus (blackberry) seed oil or Rubus Villosus (blackberry) seed oil
Suggested usage: 1% to 5%
Shelf life: 6 months to 9 months
Tocopherols: 1639 ppm
Phytosterols: 4037 ppm
Free fatty acids (FFA): 3.5%
HLB: 7

References for the fruit oil series:
Table 4.1, this textbook
Value-adding factors in cold pressed edible seed oils and flours
Journal of Food Lipids. Mar2009, Vol. 16 Issue 1, p33-49. 17p. 4 Charts.
Food Chemistry. Aug2011, Vol. 127 Issue 4, p1848-1855. 8p.
This study

As a note, I was given this blackberry seed oil to play with by the Formulator Sample Shop. They gave me the oils for free and I have been playing with them in the workshop. I am not paid for my opinion and they were advised that I would be sharing my opinion, good or bad, on my blog. 

1 comment:

robyn m said...

I'm curious, since vitamin C is water soluble, how is it that carrier oils like pomegranate and grapeseed oils have it? In other words how is a water soluble component found in an oil? Probably a stupid question but its been on my mind for a while now.