winter hair custard I made a few weeks ago is quite high in coconut oil - 10% - and it's causing my hair to be greasy by the end of the day. Can I make something that offers as much moisturizing without as much oiliness?
COCONUT OIL CONDITIONER
HEATED OIL PHASE
5% coconut oil
2% cetrimonium chloride
HEATED WATER PHASE
2% hydrolyzed protein - I used keratin hydrolysate
COOL DOWN PHASE
2% cationic polymer - I used quaternized rice
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
Use the basic conditioner making instructions for this product.
Why am I using the ingredients I've chosen in this recipe? Check out this post on the basic recipes for conditioner to learn more about using Incroquat BTMS-50 or other cationic quaternary compounds. Yes, you can substitute other quats, like Rita BTMS-225 or Incroquat BTMS-25, but remember to increase the amount you're using to ensure you get a good emulsification.
keratin hydrolysate, a hydrolyzed protein I received from the Formulator Sample Shop*. I like to use hydrolyzed proteins that form a film on my hair or skin instead of penetrating it, so I generally choose things like oat protein or keratin. If you want something to penetrate your hair strand and moisturize from the inside out, you will want to choose a hydrolyzed protein that can penetrate the hair strand, like hydrolyzed silk protein. It is suggested to use the keratin hydrolysate at 1% to 5% in the heated water phase of the product, so I chose to use 2%, because this is what I generally use.
I had originally wanted to use honeyquat as my cationic polymer, but I was out, so I chose to use quaternized rice, a sample of which I received from the Formulator Sample Shop*. This product is like the other cationic polymers we use, which is to say they are positively charged and will adsorb to our hair strand to create a nice film that will repel other hair, keep our hair less tangled, and will smooth the cuticle down. Quaternized rice is suggested at 1% to 10% in the cool down phase.
If you don't like silicones, then take a look at the silicone alternatives you could use instead.
A note on humectants: I don't tend to use a lot of humectants as I have frizzy hair that gets quite huge and hard to tame when I add things like glycerin or honey and such into my conditioners. If you want more hydration in your product, think about adding 2% to 5% in the heated water phase and removing 2% to 5% from the water amount.
*Please note that I have been given quite a few free samples from the Formulator Sample Shop. I have made it clear to them that I will share my honest opinion with you, my wonderful readers.
Some oils can penetrate your hair!