Sunday, January 19, 2014

Weekend Wonderings: How can we make a nice body oil from an oil cleansing method oil? Can we replace all the water in the heated water phase? And how do we add humectants to an anhydrous product?

In this post on the oil cleansing method, Carol asks: Your comment "Although I imagine it might make a nice body oil!" has encouraged me to ask this make a body oil would you change the percentages or oils used in anyway? Following your suggestion for normal/dry skin - I used 25% castor oil, 65% sunflower oil & 10% evening primrose oil - it works great on my face for the OCM. I tried it as a body oil & it doesn't spread on the skin, it would take a ton of it to coat the whole body. I found a body oil product I LOVE & I'm interested to reverse engineer it - any guesses on percentages here or suggestions? Ingredient List - Sweet Almond Oil, Shea Butter & Meadowfoam seed oil extract, sunflower oil, avocado, fractionated coconut & hemp oils, lavendar EO, vit E, rosemary extract. (This is directly from the company site, so not sure if it is suppose to be avocado oil & it is a misprint? Thank you!

One of the reasons I suggest learning the skin feel of your oils is so you can figure out what's important in an anhydrous or non-water containing product. For instance, you note that you love your oil blend for oil cleansing but can't spread it well on your skin, and if we know the skin feel of our oils, we can figure out what is causing that and what we could use instead. (I'm sure you've figured out it's the castor oil as it's a sticky, medium to heavy weight oil...)

Looking at this list, we can break down how each ingredient would feel on the skin and what each brings to the party. It's hard to know how much of each oil to use just from thinking about it, but that's part of the fun of workshop time, right?

  • Sweet almond oil - a light feeling, medium greasiness oil that spreads well. 
  • Shea butter - a heavy feeling, heavy greasiness butter that might spread well, but it adds viscosity and thickness to a product. (Perhaps they are talking about fractionated shea oil?)
  • Meadowfoam seed oil - a very light feeling, low greasiness oil that spreads well. 
  • Sunflower oil - a light feeling, heavy greasiness oil that spreads well. 
  • Avocado oil - a medium feeling oil with medium greasiness that spreads relatively well. 
  • Fractionated coconut oil - a very light feeling, low to medium greasiness oil that spreads well. 
  • Hempseed oil - a light feeling, low to medium greasiness oil that spreads well. (The lower the refinement, the thicker oil will feel, so this could be a medium weight oil...)
  • Lavender EO - an essential oil. No effect on skin feel due to low level of usage. 
  • Vitamin E - an anti-oxidant. No effect on skin feel due to low level of usage. 
  • Rosemary extract - an anti-oxidant. No effect on skin feel due to low level of usage. 

So there's the list. Ingredient lists are supposed to start with the ingredient we find the most and go down to the ingredients we find the least. When the list gets down to ingredients that make up 1% or less, then they can be in any order they want. We are going to assume the essential oils and lower make up the 1% category, but there's no reason there needs to be more than 1% of hempseed oil, fractionated coconut oil, avocado oil, or sunflower oil, for instance. It could be 90% sweet almond oil with each ingredient making up 1% or less!

I really hope it's a misprint 'cause other wise this product would be a green sludge plus oils if you used a real avocado. Its shelf life would be a day or so! 

You'll choose the oils in this blend depending upon the skin feel. If the list is the right order, we know there should be more sweet almond oil and less hempseed oil with the others coming in the middle. As I mention repeatedly in the Newbie Tuesday series on skin feel of our oils, try each oil on your skin individually to get to know it better. If this product feels like a light weight product with loads of greasy skin feel, odds are pretty good you're using a lot of sweet almond oil. If this product feeling a medium weight oil with medium greasiness, you're probably using quite a bit of fractionated shea oil and avocado oil. And so on.

I don't duplicate products any more, but I'm not considering this a duplication but more of an example of how we might think about the skin feel of a product and how we might get said skin feel. 

Related posts:
Newbie Tuesday: Making a body oil
Back to basics: Making a body oil spray
Duplicating products: Neutragena's body oil
Esters: A body oil spray
Kukui nut oil: An anhydrous spray

In the post What do you want to know? Is water a filler? Sara asks: Can you replace all of the water in the water phase with a hydrosol? Like rose water? Or is it still important to have distilled water?

You can replace the water phase with any other watery thing like a hydrosol or an extract, but I've found that you end up with something that might be stickier or more fragrant than you expected. The biggest thing I've noticed is that it can change the pH of the product. I had a rosemary hydrosol that had a pH around 4.6. If I used that as 70% of the water phase, it would have offered quite a rosemary smell and would have thrown the pH out of whack. The same amount of distilled water would have a pH of 7 and would have offered no smell.

So the short answer is that you can subsitute all the water in something with a hydrosol or extract or other infusion, but there are good reasons not to...

In the same post, Bunny asks: Is there any way you can include a more traditional humectant in an anhydrous product? Or if I have a water-soluble extract that I want to add to a body butter... so in both cases, adding a very small amount of a water-based product into a mostly anhydrous product? Would there be any way to emulsify this, maybe?

You can see in this post on using sodium lactate in a lip balm, I managed to get a water soluble thing into an anhydrous or non-water containing product using lecithin, which isn't an emulsifier but an ingredient that can help incorporate water soluble ingredients.

I need to clarify something about lecithin. It can be what is called an HLB emulsifier with an HLB value of 4 or 7 or 10. We would combine it with another emulsifier to create what is called a complete emulsifier, something we could use to emulsify oil and water together to create a lotion. Without that other HLB emulsifier, it isn't a complete emulsifier and couldn't be the sole emulsifier in a lotion that you expect to work. It can take on water, but it isn't emulsifying it. If you're interested in learning more, check out this post I wrote on solubilizers

There are oil soluble ingredients that can either take on water or can help other ingredients take on water. For instance, lanolin can take on almost its own weight in water, so you could use this to take on a bit of glycerin or water soluble green tea extract or whatever you want.

Solubilizers like PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are generally used to allow you to add something oil based into a water based product, not the other way around, so really the only way to add something water based into an oil based product at home is to use an emulsifier. You might notice that I'm able to add water soluble ingredients like hydrolyzed proteins or panthenol into my conditioner bars, which are by definition anhydrous or non-water containing, or to a solid scrub bar filled with lovely oils and butters. That's thanks to the emulsifying power of Incroquat BTMS-50 or one of the other cationic quaternary compounds that are emulsifiers. You could add just a little emulsifier to your anhydrous product to help add a little water soluble ingredient, but remember that this could change the skin feel to be a little more waxy or a little more dry feeling.

Join me next weekend for more Weekend Wonderings and tomorrow for more fun with simplifying recipes!

If you'd like to see your question answered as a Weekend Wondering, just write a comment somewhere on the blog. I see all comments as they come in, and I'll do my best to answer it in the post on which you've written it or as a Weekend Wondering. Please try to keep your comments confined to posts that are relevant as you help others who might be interested in the topic as well and it means that other readers might have something wonderful to share with you and others if they stumble upon it. 

There's no rhyme or reason why something becomes a Weekend Wondering, but it generally has to do with the length of time it'll take me to answer it. Something simple gets answered as a comment; something that takes me loads of research or searching time will generally make it to the Weekend Wondering post. 


Kirsti said...

Hi Susan

I have posted comments (or thought I posted) in the past, but when I relook at the posts and comments...only 1 comment of mine has shown up. I really don't know what I'm doing wrong, but I keep trying. Hopefully this one will show up :)

I wanted to find out if you have ever heard or used an all-in-one emulsifier called Beautyderm HP (Glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, sodium lauroyl glutamate)? I was using Olivem 1000, but find the latter quite pricey. What is your opinion of an all-in-one emulsifier?

Another question I have is about ingredients - what could possibly cause a breakout on the forehead and temple area? I have made lotions with both Olivem 1000 and Beautyderm HP, and all products tend to make my skin break out in pimples and blackheads on the areas mentioned above. Lucky I just make it for my own use. Ingredients I use consist of:
Olivem 1000/Beautyderm HP
Cetyl Alcohol
Jojoba oil
Shea Butter
Isopropyl Myristate (IPM)
Capric /Caprylic Triglycerides (Myritol 318)
Kathon CG
Euxyl PE 9010
Vitamin E Acetate

Something I am currently trying is a liquid soap in a foaming bottle. I have previously tried using hydroxyethycellulose as a thickener, but it doesn't feel very nice and there is always a separation that I though it may be easier to just omit the thickener and use foaming bottles. So far, I have tried two formulations, but still feels like it's lacking body or richness. So I will go back to the drawing board and try other formulations:
Decyl glucoside
Coco betaine/Coco glucoside
Lamesoft 65/Glycerine
Euxyl PE 9010
Kathon CG

Thank you for your interesting posts - trials, tribulations and successes!


Carol said...

Thank you so much for your response. I wondered if it was shea oil instead of shea butter too. I am not familiar with shea butter oil, but plan to look into it. I spend several hours reading through your pdf's on carrier oils, butters, waxes, etc... over the weekend. I am excited to look through the body oil links you posted here & play with the oils I have on hand this week. I LOVE learning this stuff & I'm really appreciative you took the time to respond to my question. All the best! Thank you!

Kelli Spears said...

My comment is in response to Bunny's question of adding a humectant to an anhydrous product. You could check the Ingredients To Die For website. Look in the emulsifiers section for an ingredient called Calcium Stearoyl Lactylate. The description does say that you could add a water soluble extract to your oils, salves or scrubs, however, it doesn't say how much of a water soluble ingredient you can add. I would say not very much. You could email them and ask if they have anymore information that might help you. I do have this ingredient but have not formulated with it. Having just re-read their description I think I may try something this weekend.
If you are just using butters and oils for your product and use their suggestion of 3% CSL you could probably add a humectant at 1 or 2% but I would suggest making a very small amount to test it first. The CSL is not expensive and the description says it offers very smooth skin feel with no tack. If you do email them you might also ask them if this particular lactylate has incompatibilities with Cationic ingredients. Some of the lactylates are not compatible.
Hope this information offers some help.

Bunny said...

Oh AWESOME. My body butter already has lanolin in it, and all I wanted to add was a bit of glycerin... so that's exactly the answer I was hoping for! Thank you! Also thanks to Kelli; I do like lactylates, so I might look into that as well.

Gosh, I love being a crafty chemist. =D