Thursday, January 9, 2014

Ingredient: Using CaptexSBE/ButterEZ to reduce grains in your products

As I mentioned yesterday, one of the main applications of Captex SBE/ButterEZ (INCI Caprylic/capric/stearic triglycerides) is as a way of reducing grains in our butters. It's simple to use it in this capacity, and once mixed up, you can use it as you would any butter.

80% shea butter
20% Captex SBE/ButterEZ

Weigh all ingredients in a heaproof container and put into a double boiler to melt. Remember to get the temperature above 70˚C so all the fatty acids melt. Remove from the heat and place in the freezer for about 20 minutes or so, depending upon how much you've melted. Remove from the freezer and put into a product or storage container until you want to use it. Enjoy.

Yep, it really is that easy. And it's something you can do with any butter that is annoying you with grains.

Join me tomorrow as we enjoy some formulating with Captex SBE/ButterEZ.


Y. Bruner said...

Hello ! Looking in to makin lip balms that do not go grainy. I just got Butter EZ in the mail. Do I use it at 25% of the amount of betters I use/ or 25% of the entire recipe?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Y! Take a look at this post - Captex SBE - and see what you think!

Michelle DeJarnett-Deken said...

It appears Captex SBE/ButterEZ is being discontinued and this is disastrous news for those of us who make solid lotion. Do you have any ideas for other products that stop graininess in its tracks?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Sorry, Michelle, but no. Are you tempering your shea butter or heating it above 70˚C and cooling it quickly?

Ally H. said...

For Michelle above--The Herbarie sells a similar product to ButterEZ--it's called NatraButter and has the same INCI of Caprylic/Capric/Palmitic/Stearic Glycerides. They don't mention it being discontinued so you might still be able to acquire it. Cheers! :-)

Michelle DeJarnett-Deken said...

Hi Susan - I've tried tempering but nothing I do including cooling it directly in the freezer etc removes the grains like Captex SBE.

Ally - I found it at Herbarie as well but it's $25/lb. That's a little more than I want to pay, but if that's the only way to get it I'll have to. I know, though, that they're charging that price because Abitec discontinued it. Once Herbarie is out, their out for good. Ugh - so frustrating!

Michelle DeJarnett-Deken said...

Susan, what do you think of Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride? I'm not sure of the difference between Palmitic and Myristic but I thought you might know. That's the only other thing I can find that even sounds the same.

Michelle DeJarnett-Deken said...

Upon doing additional research, I received this note from Making Cosmetics after I asked if caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic glyceride would do the same thing:
"It probably can, but you can also use just mainly triglyceride and a smaller amount of stearic acid (melted with the triglyceride) then mixed with the shea butter to get similar results. Or if you heat it all up then you don't need to melt the stearic acid in the triglyceride." MCTs are caprylic/capric triglycerides, yes? Wouldn't this mean that we could make our own Captex SBE with a mix of MCT oil and stearic acid, as it were? I thought I'd check with the expert, Susan.