Friday, January 17, 2014

Emulsifiers: Making a slightly simpler Lotionpro 165 body butter


We took a look at a body butter yesterday that contained quite a few ingredients. If I surveyed every recipe on this site - which would number over a thousand! - there would probably be a question on each of them from you, my wonderful readers, on how to make them simpler, how to leave an ingredient out, or how to change it in some way.

If you really want to learn how to do some serious tweaking, please click here for the start of the learning to formulate series where you can spend some time learning how to alter the different phases of our lotion products over and over again! We'll be taking a look at this recipe over the next few days to see how we could alter it...

BODY BUTTER WITH LOTIONPRO 165
HEATED WATER PHASE
38% distilled water
10% chamomile hydrosol
5% water soluble calendula extract
2% glycerin
2% multigrain complex (hydrolysed protein)
2% sodium lactate
0.5% allantoin

HEATED OIL PHASE
13% shea butter
8% pumpkin seed oil
5% Lotionpro 165
3% cetyl alcohol
2% IPM

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
2% quaternized rice (cationic polymer)
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or preservative of choice at suggested usage rates)

What do we really need in this body butter? We need four things - water, oil, emulsifier, and preservative - and everything else is superfluous. So why include the other ingredients? Because they offer all kinds of wonderful benefits like a nicer skin feel, fatty acids that can help moisturize, humectants that hydrate, silicones that increase slip and glide, occlusives that protect our skin from the outside world, and so on. 

So what would it look like if we stripped this recipe down? I'm going to include the fatty alcohol, cetyl alcohol, because it offers stability to the product and creates a really lovely skin feel. I'm including the same amount of oils and butter in the original recipe with the same amount of emulsifier. 

STRIPPED DOWN BODY BUTTER WITH LOTIONPRO 165
HEATED WATER PHASE
64.5% distilled water

HEATED OIL PHASE
15% butter
12% oils
5% emulsifier
3% cetyl alcohol

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% preservative 

Pretty basic, but still lovely. You could alter this until the proverbial cows come home with different oils, butters, and fatty alcohols without ever changing anything in the heated water phase. 

So let's say you don't want to use IPM or cyclomethicone...how can you alter this product? Strip it down to the basics and start adding from there. In the oils amount of 12%, just don't add IPM or the silicones to the product. Let's say you want to use loads of rice bran oil and cocoa butter, just add rice bran oil as the 12% oil phase and use cocoa butter as your butter. 

Keep in mind that, for the most part, we can substitute any oil for any other oil in a recipe. If you see a suppliers' recipe with evening primrose, you could use any other oil in its place. You might change the viscosity and you might change the skin feel, but you'll still get a well emulsified lotion. 

Join me Monday for some more tweaking of this recipe! 

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2 comments:

Lise M Andersen said...

search function is working on my blog again- I just dropped in to search for something on yours and can't find it.. did you take it down?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Lise. I did take it down as I was tired of hearing that it wasn't working, but I've put it back up. Thanks for the alert!