Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Emulsifiers: Lotionpro 165 in a lotion

We met Lotionpro 165 in yesterday's post, so it only seems fitting to try it in a lotion recipe today! When I find a new emulsifier, I like to try it out in a product I've made many times before so I can compare it directly with my regular emulsifiers like Polawax or Ritamulse SCG. I thought I'd make this pumpkin seed lotion I made a few months ago for my husband. (If you want to know why I'm using each ingredient, please click on the lotion link!) I've tried to keep this recipe the same as the other one, but I was out of aloe vera and hydrosols, so I didn't include them in this recipe. I shall do that next time!

LOTIONPRO 165 TESTER LOTION WITH PUMPKIN SEED OIL
HEATED WATER PHASE
63% distilled water
3% glycerin
2% silk amino acids
0.5% allantoin

HEATED OIL PHASE
21% oils - 15% pumpkin seed and 6% evening primrose oil
4% Lotionpro 165
2% cetyl alcohol
2% IPM

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
0.5% Vitamin E
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance or essential oil (optional)

Please use the basic lotion making instructions for this product! Remember that the melting point of this product is 54˚C to 60˚C, so you need to heat and hold above those temperatures, ideally around 70˚C. (You should always heat and hold, anyway!) I decided to use a stick blender with this product instead of my usual hand mixer - I thought I had read that you had to stick blend this one - and it worked very well. You could also use a hand mixer with the beater attachment. Don't try to whisk this by hand as it needs something stronger to whip it well.

As a lotion, it's great. It's quite fluffy and light and goes on my skin quite easily with a decent amount of play time. It felt like it sunk in well, but still left a nice layer of oily waxiness left on my skin to feel like I had applied lotion. It didn't feel too greasy or too non-greasy or powdery on my skin. My skin wasn't shiny, though, which is something my mom enjoys seeing on her skin.

If I compare this to the version with Polawax, it's definitely lighter and definitely fluffier. The Polawax version left behind a waxier layer on my skin and a greasier feeling on my hands.

If I compare this to a lotion made with Ritamulse SCG, it's definitely lighter and definitely fluffier. The Ritamulse versions of this lotion I've made are a little drier feeling and definitely leave behind a waxy coating on your skin.

Would I use this emulsifier again? Heck yeah! It was easy to understand how to use it, it was easy to use in a recipe, and it feels fantastic! I really like this emulsifier and will add it to my regular rotation along with Polawax and Ritamulse SCG. The fluffiness is really unique amongst the emulsifiers, and it works well in other products, too.

Join me tomorrow to learn more about another interesting emulsifier, Sugarmulse.

6 comments:

BB said...

I find this emulsifier best for making nice face lotions - and better thickened with cetyl alcohol. Not as robust for making body creams as BTMS or Ewax.
It has a very nice feel and thickens up in a day or two.

Aljonor said...

I have this ingredient and use it in my hair product to thicken my leave-in conditioner. I use the Bromide in my leave in and it tends to thin out the product, but with lotionpro I get a nice texture. I really like it.

Elizabeth Aqui-Seto said...

I finally tried Lotionpro 165 and love the result. But, like BB said, it did take more than 1 day to thicken. More like 2-3 days. This was a surprise, as the result was a very liquid lotion.

Confession: because I was testing a couple new emulsifiers and only making 100G, I went the quick route and used the microwave. Next time round, I will do the proper way separating oil and water, and heat and hold.

It will be interesting to see if the heat and hold will also produce the same result.

Anyway, I love the feel of the lotion, and no soaping effect. I used Susan's recipe Lotionrpo 165 Tester lotion, except I substituted the oils for an herbal (chickweed and witchazel) oil infusion with ricebran, hemp, apricot kernel and grapeseed oil.

Alana said...

Can LotionPro emulsify 38% shea butter and 3% stearic acid along with 3% menthol crystals? What is the max capacity of this emulsifier to emulsify oils? Thank you!

Alana said...

Perhaps my previous question was unclear- perhaps I should ask what is the highest percentage of oils LotionPro 165 can emulsify?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Alana! I've answered your question in today's Weekday Wonderings. The short answer is that there isn't a defined amount this emulsifier can emulsify. Check out the post for more!