I started with my basic body butter recipe, then I tweaked it to contain some ingredients I had in my workshop that would be suitable for a mid-winter body butter intended to offer some serious moisturizing and hydrating.
BODY BUTTER WITH LOTIONPRO 165
HEATED WATER PHASE
38% distilled water
10% chamomile hydrosol
5% water soluble calendula extract
2% multigrain complex (hydrolysed protein)
2% sodium lactate
HEATED OIL PHASE
13% shea butter
8% pumpkin seed oil
5% Lotionpro 165
3% cetyl alcohol
COOL DOWN PHASE
2% quaternized rice (cationic polymer)
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or preservative of choice at suggested usage rates)
Use the general lotion making instructions to create this product.
I'm a big fan of occlusives, so I thought I'd use allantoin in the heated water phase and dimethicone in the cool down phase to provide that barrier from the outside world because we all know winter isn't the best friend of our skin! I love humectants, those wonderful ingredients that draw water from the atmosphere to our skin, and I thought a combination of sodium lactate - one that we shouldn't use at over 2.5% as it can make us sun sensitive, and we still get sun around here in the winter - and glycerin would offer all those wonderful qualities we want in a humectant without being sticky.
I really like calendula extract as it offers anti-inflammatory properties, soothes inflamed and chapped skin. You could increase one of the hydrosols or extracts that offer similar properties. Make sure the liquid calendula extract you get is water soluble. If you want to use oil soluble calendula, you can substitute it for some of the pumpkin seed oil or shea butter.
hydrolyzed proteins you want to act as film formers and moisturizers. I chose the multigrain complex from Formulator Sample Shop (outside link) with quinoa, rice, and amaranth proteins as it is advertised as gluten free, and one of my testers has celiac disease and I'm not sure she would be sensitive to wheat or oat protein in a topical product. You can use any of the other hydrolyzed proteins in its place.
In the oil phase, I'm using pumpkin seed oil because it's my new Saturday night thing - you can tell I'm in love with this oil, eh? - as I find that it offers a good balance of fatty acids, Vitamin E, phytosterols, and polyphenols. If you don't have any, try substituting sesame seed oil or rice bran oil as they are very similar in chemical composition and skin feel. Or choose any other oil you want. Remember, when you change the oil, you change the skin feel. If you want something that feels lighter, consider fractionated coconut oil. If you want something heavier, choose something like avocado or olive oil.
If you're interested in learning more about oils, may I suggest either reading the Newbie Tuesday series on the skin feel of our oils or the formulating lotions posts on substituting them in our products?
As I mentioned earlier, I like shea butter because it offers a rich and greasy feeling to the product. If you want something drier, try using mango butter or something like babassu oil instead. You could use coconut oil, but it won't be as thick as something with a proper butter. I've never tried this recipe with cocoa butter, but I guess you could use that, too.
I'm including cetyl alcohol in this product as a way of thickening up the body butter and as a stabilizer for the Lotionpro 165. (I've been reading about how fatty alcohols stabilize our lotions lately and it's really interesting! Look for it shortly when I start writing more about liquid crystal emulsifiers!) You could substitute behenyl alcohol for a drier and powderier feeling body butter or cetearyl alcohol for a waxier feeling product. You could use stearic acid for a much thicker feeling product.
I like to include 2% IPM in most of my greasier feeling lotions as it will make it feel less greasy. I know this sounds weird, especially as someone who extolls the virtues of greasier feeling lotion when I can, but there's something that 2% IPM brings to a lotion that makes it feel less greasy in a good way. I don't like the powdery feeling that an emulsifier like BTMS-50 can bring to a product when it reduces greasines, and IPM doesn't offer that.
In the cool down phase, you know I had to include panthenol as a humectant and as an ingredient to help with wound healing and skin's barrier repair mechanisms. I've included cyclomethicone as an ingredient to increase the slip and glide of the product while offering some reduction in greasiness and a feeling of powderiness, but not too much powderiness. And I've included a cationic polymer to offer conditioning to the product. My skin could always use more conditioning! If you don't have this ingredient, leave it out and increase the water phase by 2%.
I'm really shocked at how fluffy this product is, to be honest. If you want something that feels more like your traditional greasy and heavier body butter, you'll probably want to use 20% shea butter instead of the oil and butter combination. But even then, it'll probably be fluffy. (Talk about a first world problem, eh? My body butter is too fluffy and light! Sigh...)
just click here and choose one of the variations you find!
Could you make this simpler? Sure! Join me tomorrow for a slightly simpler version of this extremely fluffy body butter!
Please note: I am not affiliated with any company selling bath and body supplies or products. I bought the Lotionpro 165 from Lotioncrafter with my wages. I received ingredients from the Formulator Sample Shop for free. When I write about those ingredients, I am sharing my honest opinion with you!