Friday, December 20, 2013

What do you want to know? The oil cleansing method (part 3)

If you're just joining us, please take a look at part one and part two of this series on the oil cleansing method! 

What oils might be suitable for an oil cleansing method cleanser for oily skin? In all honesty, my first response is that there really aren't any good oils for oily skin...but I'm going with the idea today that we want more astringent feeling oils with higher levels of linoleic acid or gamma-linoleic acid. Oils high in oleic acid tend not to play nice with acne prone oily skin types as it can make the P. acnes bacteria worse, so I'm not recommending those for this application, unless you're a resistant type. 

My first suggestion is to go with more castor oil as it will remove more oils and should feel more astringent. I'm going with the idea that we're working with 50% castor oil. Again, you will have to try out what you're comfortable with as you make your products. If you want something astringent that doesn't contain a ton of oleic acid...you have only a few, more expensive choices, like evening primrose oil. You could, however, try using something like fractionated coconut oil, which doesn't contain any of the fatty acids I note above but will still work in this application, or jojoba oil, which penetrates our hair follicles to remove oils. 

POTENTIAL OIL CLEANSING METHOD CLEANSER FOR OILY SKIN
50% castor oil
50% fractionated coconut oil 
or
20% fractionated coconut oil and 20% jojoba oil with 10% evening primrose 

Blend together in a pump or disc cap container. Follow the oil cleansing method cleansing method. Rejoice. 

Again, please make only a small amount of this - 10 grams to 20 grams - and use it for about a week to see what happens before making changes. If you're having an adverse reaction, stop before then. But it takes about a week for pimples from a product to develop, so you'll need that time to really see how it impacts your skin. 

To answer the question, yes, I have tried the oil cleansing method and it didn't work for me. I used 50% castor oil with 50% fractionated coconut oil, and I found that after a few days, my skin seemed oilier than ever and after a few more days, the blackheads and pimples on my skin were out of control. I'm an acne and rosacea prone oily girl, and it seems that I need a good surfactant based cleanser to keep my skin under control. I'm sure that I should have done this or that to make it work, but my discomfort was really unbearable and I'm loathe to try it again. As with everything, your mileage will vary with the products you make. You

7 comments:

scd said...

Thank you for the interesting read, all 3 articles! The passion you exude is powerful and I hope it continues to go strong, it definitely has pushed me in the right direction!

I will be trying these recipes out and maybe twisting them a bit to see what i come up with

atomica said...

Hello Susan, I have a similar skin type and there is no way I'd ever want to add oil to it! I am also suspicious about the hype around this. Since you are a cosmetic science geek ;) some of the information in this article may interest you: http://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/oily-skin/_/the-oil-cleansing-method

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi scd! I've been doing this blog for almost five years - is it really that long? - and I'm not stopping any time soon!

Hi Atomica! Paula summed up my thoughts so well! Thanks for posting this!

LS said...

I've been trying this on and off, but my skin is A) "mature" (in my 40s, for now) and B) not acne prone, more likely to be dry than oily. I made it into more of a cream with mango butter (to keep it from being too oily), rice bran, avocado, and other varying oils. No castor. Occasionally, I add salt or sugar for a scrubby.
I just got some argan oil, so that's the next experiment. It's worth trying, if you have the right type of skin.

LS said...

I've been trying this on and off, but my skin is A) "mature" (in my 40s, for now) and B) not acne prone, more likely to be dry than oily. I made it into more of a cream with mango butter (to keep it from being too oily), rice bran, avocado, and other varying oils. No castor. Occasionally, I add salt or sugar for a scrubby.
I just got some argan oil, so that's the next experiment. It's worth trying, if you have the right type of skin.

Cakey said...

Hi. Hoping you can shed some light. I usually have combination skin with lots of blocked pores on my nose - I have been using different oils & trying to find one that gives me good results but thus far am struggling as my skin is suddenly super dry. It doesn't matter how much oil I apply, it still feels tight & dry underneath. I have been using Mango butter to remove make up (mixed with a bit of Sunflower oil) & then moisturising with a mixture of Jojoba, Avocado oil, Sunflower oil, Meadowfoam oil, Sea Buckthorn oil, Broccoli oil, Camellia seed oil, Marula oil, Baobab oil, Pomegranate seed oil, Cranberry seed oil, Pequi oil & Echium oil. I thought these were all good oils - where am I going wrong?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Cakey! I've answered your question as today's weekend wonderings and the short answer is that oils don't help with dry skin. You need some water in there to help.