Friday, December 27, 2013

What do you want to know? Making a body milk (part four)

If you're new to this series on making a body milk and want to know more, please check out part onepart two, and part three to see where we derived this recipe and what modifications we can make! Here's our starting recipe...

85.5% water

10% oils
4% emulsifier

0.5% preservative

If we want a thin feeling lotion - a body milk - with great moisturizing, we can turn to our esters! The down side is that we aren't getting those lovely fatty acids and phytosterols we would find in our vegetable and seed oils, but we are getting a drier feeling and thinner oil that will create a silky feeling product on our skin. 

What the heck is an ester? (From Wikipedia) Esters are chemical compounds derived by reacting an oxoacid (one containing an oxo group, X=O) with a hydroxyl compound such as an alcohol or phenol. Esters are usually derived from an inorganic acid or organic acid in which at least one -OH (hydroxyl) group is replaced by an -O-alkyl (alkoxy) group, and most commonly from carboxylic acids and alcohols.

So what does this mean to us? An ester tends to be a synthetic emollient that is generally lighter than our oils and are generally less greasy feeling. When you get a lotion from the store that feels less greasy than you expected, it's probably thanks to an ester like C12-15 alkyl benzoate or cetearyl ethylhexanoate. Isopropyl myristate or IPM is one of the more common esters, and we tend to use this to reduce the feelings of greasiness in our products. 

I think I'll use cetearyl ethylhexanoate as the 10% oils in this product. It will offer a great feeling of moisturizing with a low level of greasiness. (If you don't wish to use an ester, but want a thinner feeling body milk, consider using fractionated coconut oil or meadowfoam seed oil as those are both very light feeling oils.) If I combine this ester with BTMS-50, I'll have a product that is silky and powdery feeling. 

As an aside, we could use this as a very nice after shave lotion. I've made this version before for that reason, and it is a very matte looking and feeling moisturizer. If you're having trouble getting the men in your life to use moisturizer even when their skin is cracking and peeling, this might be the product for them! 

When it comes to the water phase, we haven't really established what this product is going to be. I'm thinking that we could make something for post-shaving for men and women. So let's think of what ingredients might be nice for that purpose. (It will make a very nice, dry feeling all over body milk as well, but I figure we need a goal!) 

For shaving, I think of reducing irritation, redness, and possible stinging. I think a lovely hydrosol like lavender might be a good idea, and definitely some aloe vera liquid. Let's include those two things at 10% each in the heated water phase. I think some chamomile might be a good idea. Let's include chamomile hydrosol at 10% in the heated water phase, too. I think I'd like a little willow bark extract in here, but I worry the powder might make it look really brown if I include it at 0.5% in the cool down phase, so I'm going with some liquid willow bark extract at 5% in the heated water phase. 

I know I used it in yesterday's version, but I really like the idea of using marshmallow extract* at 5% in the heated water phase for film forming and moisturizing. (INCI: Althea offinalis leaf/root extract (and) Aqua) Marshmallow contains polysaccharides and is muscilaginous, meaning it contains mucilage that will form a film on your skin and offer moisturizing and hydrating. It is used as an anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and conditioning ingredient. 

I always want some kind of humectant in a product, and I think I'll include honeyquat at 3% in the cool down phase as both a conditioner and humectant and panthenol at 2% in the cool down phase as both a humectant and anti-inflammatory. I realize the BTMS-50 is both a conditioning agent and an emulsifier, but I figured another one couldn't hurt, eh? Oh, what the heck, let's add 2% sodium lactate in the heated water phase as it's a great humectant, plus it can reduce transepidermal water loss (or TEWL) in our skin, something that tends to increase after shaving. And I think I'll use Phytokeratin as my hydrolyzed protein as it contains a mix of film forming and moisturizing proteins, which is always a great mix for post-shaving products. 

So, what do we have here? 

35.5% water
10% aloe vera (liquid)
10% lavender hydrosol
10% chamomile hydrosol
5% marshmallow extract (water soluble)
5% willow bark extract (liquid)
2% sodium lactate
2% Phytokeratin

10% cetearyl ethylhexanoate
4% BTMS-50

0.5% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil
2% panthenol
3% honeyquat

Use the general lotion making instructions for this product. You've probably noticed I've changed the amount of water we're using in this product. I haven't changed how much the total of the water phase is for the most part - I still want to have about 85% water in this product - but I've changed what constitutes the water phase. If you're curious why this might be, check out this post - Learning to formulate: the water phase.

As a note, if you feel this product might be too dry feeling for your tastes, feel free to use 4% Polawax or 5% e-wax in place of the BTMS-50. I haven't tried this recipe with Ritamulse SCG, so I can't suggest a usage rate for it. 

I hope you've had fun looking at how to make a body milk! Join me tomorrow for some Christmas week Weekend Wonderings! 


MK said...

Hi Susan,
happy Holidays!
I am loving this series on 'Milk-weight' lotions and wonder if you could also cover a Milk Cleanser for sensitive and dry skins.
I am also thinking I may have to order some Marshmallow extract. Sounds like a great ingredient!
Thank you for another wonderful year of your blog!

Marjo said...

Susan i am really gratefull for your very elaborate answer on this particular matter! I have followed the entire series and made three batches with instead if the ester you use dicaprylyl carbonate and no hydrosols for they smell funny to me :). I still managed to create a lotion however instead of a milk with btms50 am trying again today! *exited*