Thursday, December 26, 2013

What do you want to know? Making a body milk (part three)

Happy Boxing Day! It's another day to enjoy the Christmas spirit! Did you get lovely prezzies and have a wonderful dinner? I hope you had a lovely day! Although Boxing Day is a huge shopping day in my part of Canada (B.C.), Raymond and I avoid the crowds, staying home to watch videos and play games. 

If you're new to this series on making a body milk and want to know more, please check out part one and part two to see where we derived this recipe and what modifications we can make! Here's our starting recipe...

85.5% water

10% oils
4% emulsifier

0.5% preservative

What other modifications in water soluble ingredients could we make in this product? What are we making and for what kind of skin type? I think I'll make a body milk for dry skin with loads of conditioning and moisturizing ingredients. Because I can't rely upon my butters for creating an occlusive barrier, I have to turn to other ingredients for moisturizing and barrier protection.

Related posts:
What is dry skin?
Impaired skin barrier mechanisms
Lower hydration levels
What ingredients can we use for dry skin (part one)
What ingredients can we use for dry skin (part two)

When I think of occlusion, I think of three ingredients - cocoa butter, allantoin, and dimethicone. I don't want to add cocoa butter because that'll turn it into a thicker lotion, not a milk, so that's right out. Allantoin is a great addition at 0.5% in the heated water phase because it offers barrier protection without adding thickening. I think I'll add dimethicone at 2% in the cool down phase for more barrier protection. Dry skin needs as much barrier protection as possible, so those two additions at those small amounts will offer great occlusion without turning this into a thicker product.

A note on allantoin: You don't need to buy a lot - 57 grams or two ounces will last you a really long time if you think about it. If you're using it at 0.5 grams for every 100 grams (3.5 ounces), you'd have to make 11,400 grams or 11.4 kg (25.1 lbs) of product before you'd use that tiny container! 

When I think of dry skin, I think of using humectants. I think I'm going to use a combination of humectants in this product. Glycerin is always a good one, and I think I'll add sodium lactate to the mix at 2.5% to make a nice combination of humectants. (Sodium lactate at 3% can be sun sensitizing, so I always use it at 2.5% or lower to ensure I don't get close to 3% by accident!) I think I'll throw some panthenol in the cool down phase at 2% for its wonderful qualities of film forming and barrier healing.

We could add some conditioning for our skin by adding a cationic polymer. I have some quaternized rice*, which is a cationic polymer made from rice, and I think I'll add that at up to 5% in the heated water phase. If you don't have this, you can use any other cationic polymer like polyquat 7 (up to 5%), polyquat 10 (up to 5%), polyquat 44 (up to 2%), honeyquat (up to 5%, cool down phase), and so on.

I think I'll use hydrolyzed rice protein at 2% in the heated water phase to offer film forming and moisturizing.

I can add a few extracts here. I think I'm going to add some marshmallow extract* at 5% in the heated water phase for film forming and moisturizing. (INCI: Althea offinalis leaf/root extract (and) Aqua) Marshmallow contains polysaccharides and is muscilaginous, meaning it contains mucilage that will form a film on your skin and offer moisturizing and hydrating. It is used as an anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and conditioning ingredient.

I'm adding powdered chamomile extract at 0.5% in the cool down phase because it's been shown to reduce transepidermal water loss for up to 48 hours, and TEWL is a huge issue for those of you with dry skin! You could also use up to 20% chamomile hydrosol in the heated water phase, if you prefer.

For the oil phase, I think evening primrose oil would be a good choice as it reduces itching and soothes dry skin. You could also consider borage oil, but the price has gone up dramatically lately, and I find the skin feel to be quite similar. I'm going to use 4% Polawax here to compensate for the dry feeling of the evening primrose, but you can use 4% BTMS-50 if you wish. If you're using e-wax, make sure you increase the emulsifier to 5% and reduce the water amount by 1%.

62.5% water
5% quaternized rice
5% marshmallow extract (water soluble)
3% glycerin
2.5% sodium lactate
2% hydrolyzed silk protein
0.5% allantoin

10% evening primrose oil
4% BTMS-40 or Polawax

0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol

Use the general lotion making instructions for this product.

You could probably come up with a lovely name for this product like rice & flowers body milk or evening primrose & rice body milk or something similar. I figure it's better for me to use what ingredients are in the product in the name so we don't get confused on the blog with all the variations we'll make! I really can be creative with names - just not on the blog! 

You've probably noticed I've changed the amount of water we're using in this product. I haven't changed how much the total of the water phase is for the most part - I still want to have about 85% water in this product - but I've changed what constitutes the water phase. If you're curious why this might be, check out this post - Learning to formulate: the water phase.

*Please note that I was given free samples of a variety of ingredients by the Formulator Sample Shop. I have not been paid to say anything nice about the ingredients, and I made it clear that I would give my honest opinon of them on the blog.

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at another variation of this body milk using esters!


ayhllon said...

Happy holidays Susan,
I found a nice face cream that claims "no parabens" reading the list of incredients I found they use methylisothiazolinone as the preservative, doing some searching I found apparently is an antimicrobial in the form of soluble concentrated liquid.
Do you have any comment on it?
As you know while parabens may be alright they come loaded with a bad reputation most people don't question or research.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi ayhllon! I've answered your question in Saturday, December 28th's Weekend Wonderings. I haven't used it, so what I present you to is based on what I've read!