Tuesday, December 24, 2013

What do you want to know? How to make a body milk (part two)

We took a look at a basic body milk recipe we could make using a facial moisturizer recipe yesterday. Let's take a look at a few different versions of this recipe!

BASIC FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE MODIFIED TO BE A BODY MILK
WATER PHASE
85.5% water

OIL PHASE
10% oils
4% emulsifier

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% preservative


VERSION #1 WITH PUMPKIN SEED OIL
I'm having a love affair with pumpkin seed oil right now because I like the balance of oleic and linoleic acids as well as the light to medium weight and slightly greasy skin feel. You could use any oil you want for the 10% oils in this product.

What emulsifier should I use? Whichever one I like? I know the original question was about BTMS-50, so you can use 4% BTMS-50 if you wish, or 4% Polawax or 5% e-wax. (We generally use 1% more e-wax than Polawax).

Yes, I know that I have more Polawax than the 25% of the oil phase suggested usage, but I've never had great success with less than 3.5% Polawax, so I figure 4% is a good number. Plus, I know 4% works in this recipe as I've made it many times before. So we're going to go with the higher amount for this recipe. Feel free to alter it as you wish. 

What kinds of things could we do about the water phase? We can incorporate a ton of water soluble things into this product to get all kinds of wonderful features. We can start by adding some hydrosols or liquids that can behave as a substitute for water. We could add some aloe vera, witch hazel, or any hydrosol at up to 20% each in the water phase. I'm throwing in some lavender hydrosol as it's supposed to be good for soothing wind or weather chapped skin, and I'll use some aloe vera because it's always good for soothing skin.

WATER PHASE
65.5% water
10% aloe vera
10% lavender hydrosol

I think I'd like a humectant in here. I don't like making lotions without humectants because a tiny bit goes such a long way to hydrating our skin. My favourite humectants are glycerin, panthenol, and sodium lactate. Any of these will do - as will your favourite - but I think I'll go with 3% glycerin in this recipe because it's inexpensive and plentiful in my workshop.

Are there any water soluble extracts nice for our skin? If I'm thinking about what I need this time of year, I think some chamomile extract is always a good plan as I'm always enjoying wind or weather chapped skin. So let's use that at 0.5% powdered extract in the cool down phase. I always like some protein in my product, so let's try 2% hydrolyzed silk protein in the heated water phase.

What have we created?


BODY MILK WITH PUMPKIN SEED OIL, LAVENDER & ALOE VERA
WATER PHASE
59% water
10% aloe vera
10% lavender hydrosol
3% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed silk protein

OIL PHASE
10% pumpkin seed oil
4% BTMS-50

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% preservative
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
1% fragrance

Use the general lotion making instructions for this product.

This created a lovely milky product with a thin consistency. With the pumpkin seed oil, it feels slightly greasy but not too greasy if you use Polawax. With BTMS-50, it feels less greasy as that's a powdery feeling emulsifier. If you make this with BTMS-50 it will be thicker than one made with Polawax. If you want it to be thinner, you could go to 3% BTMS-50 and use 60% water.

You'll notice that we reduced the amount of water every time we added a new water soluble ingredient. If you want to know more, click here - learning to formulate: the water phase.

Could we add more awesome water soluble ingredients to this product? Why yes, we could! Let's take a look at a few after Christmas!

No comments: