Saturday, December 21, 2013

Weekend Wonderings: When we mix solubilizers with oil, does it make it less comedogenic?

In the post on caprylyl/capryl glucoside, cuindalight asks: May I ask... when you create a water soluble oil (with whatever solubilizer poly 80 or Caprylyl/capryl glucoside - is it considered oil free? In other words, could I create a spray oil this way on my face with an oil I normally would not use on acne-prone skin, but get the benefits of that now water soluble oil - e.g. pomegranate or rice bran, etc. You have a few posts on this. For my body I am never worried - but for my face I am. Just bought some of the esters that i believe you say, you can use on your face for that acne prone skin - Peg 7 Olivate or the Water Sol Shea Oil from Herbarie... but still would love create more of my own with oils I like for my body - but to put them on my face? Thanks for any tips on this issue.

No, anything you solubilize with a solubilizer like caprylyl/capryl glucoside will still be and oil and will still have all those comedogenic or acnegenic effects we're trying to avoid.

When we mix our oil with a solubilizer, we aren't changing its molecular structure or nature. We're just mixing it with a solubilizer and then some water. If you look at the picture of emulsification, you'll see that the emulsifier brings together water and oil so they can live together - it doesn't change the nature of the oil or the water.

When we use a water solublie ester - for instance, the PEG-7 olivate you mention - the molecule is changed, so it's not olive oil with oleic acid any more, it's PEG-7 olivate, which doesn't necessary have the comedogenic or acnegenic properties we are avoiding.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news!


Will Cleveland Ohio said...

Unrelated but wanted to wish you a slightly early Merry Christmas!

cuindalight said...

Thank you Susan... I kind of thought this might be the case, but I wasn't sure and wanted to see how far I could push the limit. At least I can make a water soluble spray for the body with whatever oil and just use the esters on the face! I really appreciate the clarification! Have a very happy holiday! Seeta

Michelle said...

I use cleansing creams (which are essentially lotions) to wash my oily, rosacea-and-acne-prone skin and I love it. I make my own from oils like jojoba, hemp, castor, thistle, and other oils good for my skin type. I use Olive-M for the emulsifier. It cleanses and leaves my skin soft without the tightness I used to get with surfactant-based cleansers. -Michelle