Monday, November 4, 2013
Meadowfoam seed oil
Meadowfoam flowers are found on Vancouver Island in Canada and northern California and southern Oregon, which makes it a local product for me! The INCI is Limnathes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil. It's made by crushing the seeds, which give up 20% to 30% oil. It has a shelf life of a year because of its weird fatty acid make-up, and it is said it can extend the life of other oils when we combine them with meadowfoam seed oil. Being an oil, it is soluble in other oils and oil soluble things, and not soluble or mixable with water or water soluble things.
Related posts: Why oil and water don't mix
We also find eicosenoic acid in jojoba oil and a bit in borage oil, but I'm still not sure what it brings to our skin. If you want an ingredient that is cheaper than jojoba with a lighter feel and less waxiness, meadowfoam is a great choice.
It has about 2% unsaponifiables, which is where we find the phytosterols and polyphenols of an oil.
With all those double bonds, why is this a stable oil? "The stability is due to the fact that the double bonds are not conjugated and the to the presence of natural anti-oxidants in the oil" unlike something like linoleic acid, which can have conjugated bonds if it's a conjugated linoleic acid. (We'll take a look at that in more depth tomorrow!)
How do we use it? Use it like we would other oils. If you're worried about exposing it to heat, just think about all the protection it has from oxidation, which is what can happen when we heat an oil. It'll be just fine. I've seen it suggested for usage at up to 5%, but there's no reason you can't go higher.
It's a slightly more expensive oil - on par with evening primrose and kukui nut at my local supplier - so you might want to use it at lower levels. It seems like most people are using it as an oil extender than for its inherent qualities, and you can use it at up 5% for that purpose. For any other purpose, you can use it up to 100%.
Does heating & holding damage our oils?
Heating, holding, freezing & thawing our ingredients
Quick summary about meadowfoam seed oil
INCI: Limnathes alba (Meadowfoam) seed oil
Shelf life: 1 year (possibly longer)
Iodine value: 89 to 105
Saponification value: 160 to 175
Specific gravity: 0.90 to 0.92
Suggested usage rate: up to 5% for anti-oxidant properties, up to 100% otherwise
Not heat sensitive
Join me tomorrow as we take a look at this weird and wacky oil's anti-oxidative stability before we do a little formulating with it.
Page 11 and page 49, Ingredients from science
Page 2, Liquid esters
Page 409, Surfactants in personal care products
Page 416, Synthetics, mineral oils, and bio-based lubricants: chemistry and technology
Page 435, Nutriceutical and speciality lipids and their co-products
Data sheet from Brenntag Specialties
Quick summary page from Brenntag Specialties
Interesting article comparing jojoba and meadowfoam seed oils
Page 140, The Biological Activity of Photochemicals