Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Why the heck did I buy this and what can I do with it Wednesday? Cromollient SCE

In the original WTHDIBT&WCIDWIW post, Kathy Q brought up the ingredient Cromollient SCE (INCI: Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate). We've discussed it before, but let's take another look at it and what it can bring to our products.

Cromollient SCE is an emollient PPG ester we can use to solubilize oil soluble ingredients into water soluble products, or use it as an emollient ester on its own.

Cromollient SCE is a fantastic emollient for hair care products, and works well with surfactants for shampoos and emulsified products like conditioners. It can be used in rinse off and leave in products at a suggested rate of 1% for leave ins up to 3% in rinse-offs. (You can use 3% in the leave in if you want more emollience!) It will still produce clear products like body washes and shampoos, and it can reduce the wet combing forces of our hair up to 50% better than products without it. It also offers detangling, which is always a great thing. And it doesn't depress foam the way oils might, so you can still get great lather! Oh, and it acts as an irritation migitator so our products are more gentle to our skin!

It's great in mineral make-up as well, helping us press our powders or dissolve the wax in lipsticks.

You can use it in a cleansing oil at up to 15% and it's good for make-up removers as it's a surfactant, so it will make all the oil, grease, and other things we build up on our skin during the day rinse away cleanly. You can use it as the water soluble emollient in things like toners or cooling sprays, and you can use it in your anhydrous products like lotion bars, but it's probably better to use another ester in its place as it isn't the most emollient ester we've met so far!

If you want to use it as a bath product emulsifier, have fun! You can use at up to 10% in a dispersing bath oil and up to 2% in your bath bombs as an emollient and emulsifier.

Cromollient SCE is soluble in mineral oil, alcohol, and some surfactants. It's dispersible in water and propylene glycol, and insoluble in glycerin. It can be added in the heated oil or cool down stage, and it has a shelf life of at least 2 years.

As I mentioned above, try using it in hair care products, or your body washes - body wash (opaque) or a body wash (clear) - as the emollient ingredient,  or a blooming bath oil as your solubilizer. 

You can try using it as an ingredient in a make-up remover at up to 15%. Here's an easy one...

84.5% distilled water
15% Cromollient SCE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Mix all the ingredients. Bottle. Rejoice. Yep, it's that easy! 

Or use it as a cleansing oil. People seem to like castor oil in this application, so consider using that oil with oils you like with Cromollient SCE. 

10% castor oil
15% Cromollient SCE
74% other oils you might like 
1% Vitamin E 

Combine the oils. Mix. Bottle. Rejoice.

Have an ingredient that you're not sure about? Have an ingredient whose arrival in your workshop bewilders you? Why not make a comment here and ask why the heck did I buy this and what can I do about it, and you might see your ingredient here in the near future! Please list the ingredient, INCI name if it isn't the same as the ingredient, and how much of it you have! 


Anonymous said...

Ha! I've gone from zero to hero for buying the Cromollient with just one post from you! Thanks so much, Susan!

....which wonderful recipe will I make first.....?

Heela said...

Just bought Cromllient SCE to make a cleansing oil and lo and behold, here it is. It's a sign! haha I hope my oil is better than the DHC oil I usually use - because I love that stuff but can't justify the price!

lamabelle said...

Thank you for this recipe! I just made a 100ml batch of the makeup remover using distilled water, cromollient SCE and optiphen (using the same % as you suggested.) I mixed the cromollient SCE and optiphen together, then added them to the water and shook it up. I have two phases - is it supposed to do that? If so, should I just shake really well before using?

Thanks again!
Emily from Portland, Ore

Anonymous said...

Also, I use liquid germall plus for any water creations because that's what it's for. I've never used optioned, but from what I understand, it is for anhydrous products. I think your preservative is the culprit here.

Anonymous said...

Meant *optiohen* ...darn autocorrect

Anonymous said...

Iamabelle...What did you mean by "phases" in your comment. I don't think you're using the term correctly. Phases refers to the creation process...water phase, oil phase, etc....not the finished product because it is now created...there would be no 'phases' left to do.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anonymous. I don't allow anonymous posts on the blog. Please update with a name, or risk deletion. Thanks for contributing.

88ahsiel said...

Hi Susan,

I'm a huge fan of your blog! Thanks so much for taking the time to research and write about all of this!

I was hoping you could offer some advice on cromollient and OCM formulation:

I have dry skin and suffer from blackheads and the occasional pimple once a month. I've been doing ocm for years now but want to switch up my formulation and love the idea of it being water soluble. I'm wondering if, as in the recipe posted above, 10% castor oil wouldn't be cleansing enough? Then again, you mentioned in another post that cromollient is a mild surfactant so will also be cleansing. I've never used cromollient before so maybe you could help me out with this.

Here's what I'm thinking:

22% castor oil
22% jojoba oil
45% macadamia oil
10% cromollient sce
1% vitamin e

I picked jojoba because of its ability to penetrate and mix with sebum (so hopefully loosen dirt, etc more easily than other oils? Please correct me if I'm wrong) and macadamia for its high palmetoleic acid content. Basically I'm looking for something "deep-cleaning", healing and penetrating without being drying. Note that I will be following up with rosewater as toner and the facial serum for dry skin you posted, so I don't nee this to be super moisturizing.

I'd love to hear your thoughts and suggestions on this.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi 88ahsiel. Did you look at my posts on the oil cleansing method? All I can suggest is trying the recipe you've designed to see what you think. I can't tell you how your skin will react to this recipe: Only you can try it and see what you think. You have to try it for seven days at least, though, as that's how long it will take for your skin to respond to something new! Let us know what you think!