Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Why the heck did I buy this and what can I do with it? Wednesday

In the WTHDIBT&WCIDWI Wednesday thread, a few suggestions were made for ingredients we've already used, but let's take a look other ways to use foaming silk protein! (Click on that thread to make your own suggestion!)

Kathy Q mentioned foaming silk protein (INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk Protein) as a potential why did I buy this? ingredient, something we've used in the past in our foaming facial cleanser. I like to use this surfactant where it'll be the star of the show, but you could use it for any other surfactant in a shampoo or body wash, anywhere you want some substantivity.

What's the deal with foaming silk protein? It is considered gentle and substantive, which is a bonus as it offers moisturizing and conditioning as well as cleansing. You can add it in the heated water phase of your product at up to 10%, although it's safe to 100% usage or used neat.

Substantivity is defined as "an adsorption phenomenon by which materials that have opposing charges or like composition are more readily adsorbed onto or attracted to its surface and, once there, resistant to subsequent rinse-off." In other words, a material that is positively charged - like our cationic ingredients - will be attracted to the surface of our hair or skin, both of which are negatively charged. This results in what we consider to be conditioned hair or skin.  

I like to use it in a facial cleanser, and this foaming cleanser is low surfactant and gentle for all skin types. The most vital parts of this cleanser are the surfactants, water, and preservative. Everything else is just a bonus and can be altered to your preference.


FOAMING SILK FACIAL CLEANSER
HEATED PHASE
5% foaming silk surfactant
5% decyl glucoside
2.5% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% apple extract (liquid)
10% witch hazel
10% chamomile hydrosol
49% water

COOL DOWN
1% ginger root extract
5% honey matte
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
5% water soluble liquid calendula extract


What else could you do with foaming silk protein? You could make a portable cleansing cloth, and it seems like this ingredient is custom made for such a product with its lovely substantivity, just substitute the disodium cocoamphodiacetate with foaming silk surfactant in this recipe.


BASIC RECIPE FOR A CLEANSING AND/OR MOISTURIZING TOWELETTE
93.5% distilled water
4% propylene glycol
2% foaming silk surfactant
0.5% preservative (or suggested amount for something other than liquid Germall Plus)


As I mentioned, you can use it as the main ingredient in a body wash or shampoo as well. It's a surfactant, so it'll clean well, but it's also substantive, so it will leave a conditioned feeling behind. Use it anywhere you want those qualities!

Have a suggestion for an ingredient? Let me know!

4 comments:

Constance Reader said...

Could you use this to create a shampoo + conditioner, since it has characteristics of both?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I think you could use it nicely in a 2-in-1! I have a few on the site, but this one is my favourite.

Katherine Chiu said...

Susan, thank you so much for your fantastic blog post! I'm definitely going to make my very own foaming silk facial cleanser now. Plus my BFF has asked me for a moist towelette cleanser for her face, as she has really awful water.

I see some fab formulations in my future starring foaming silk!

Katherine Chiu said...

Susan, thank you so much for your fantastic blog post! I'm definitely going to make my very own foaming silk facial cleanser now. Plus my BFF has asked me for a moist towelette cleanser for her face, as she has really awful water.

I see some fab formulations in my future starring foaming silk!