Friday, October 18, 2013
Pumpkin seed oil: A whipped butter
I thought I'd modify my whipped babassu, hemp seed, and sal butter recipe to include pumpkin seed oil, only to find out that Voyageur Soap & Candle stopped carrying sal butter! Oh no, what shall I do? I'll make a substitution!
What does sal butter bring to the mix? Sal butter (INCI: Shorea robusta) has a melting point on par with cocoa butter at 34˚C to 38˚C - but the fatty acid profile is different. With 2% to 8% palmitic acid (C16), 35% to 48% stearic acid (C18), 35 to 42% oleic acid (C18:1), and 2% to 3% linoleic acid (C18:2), it has a fatty acid profile closest to kokum or shea butter. Sal butter also contains 6% to 11% arachidic acid (C20, also known as eicosanoic acid), which you'll also find in coconut and sesame seed oils to far lesser extents.
cocoa butter for the sal butter in this mix if I wanted a similar melting point and skin feel. Is there anything else? Kokum butter (INCI: Garcinia indica) has a higher melting point, but it seems more like sal butter than cocoa butter, so perhaps I'll try that here. This butter has a much high melting point than other butters - 38˚C to 40˚C - and will make your lotions or other creations much thicker than with other butters. The fatty acid profile is similar to the other butters - 5 to 8% palmitic acid (C16), 40 to 45% stearic acid (C18), 40 to 50% oleic acid (C18:1), and 2 to 4% linoleic acid (C18:2) - but it is considered an astringent butter, on par with mango butter. Its shelf life is listed as between 1 to 2 years.
I bought the kokum butter because I thougt it would be neat to see what would happen, but you can substitute cocoa butter for that ingredient in this product. As usual, when substituting remember that you'll end up with a different skin feel and melting point than the product I make, but you haven't tried my product, so you probably won't notice much of a difference! :-)
babassu oil, however, isn't optional in this product. It's essential to the melty-ness of the product. This will melt on your skin on contact, and that's because of the babassu oil. It's fairly rare that I will say this but you need to spend your money on getting some babassu oil. It is a really unique ingredient that you will enjoy!
Its fatty acid profile is interesting. With 42% lauric acid (C12), 17% myristic acid (C14), 10% palmitic acid (C16), 4% stearic acid (C18), 15% oleic acid (C18:1), and about 3% linoleic acid (C18:2), it covers the range of fatty acids with a little bit of everything. Stearic acid is a great moisturizing fatty acid. Oleic acid is a great moisturizing and possible anti-inflammatory. And linoleic acid can help restore skin's barrier functions and reduce trans-epidermal water loss. Because of this higher level of unsaturated fatty acids, babassu has a shelf life of about one year - but I don't think anyone could leave it on the shelf that long!
Babassu is considered a great replacement for coconut oil. Coconut oil is generally considered a greasy oil, so if you substitute it, you will find your creation is more astringent. Here are a few ideas on formulating with babassu oil (substitute it for the coconut oil in the recipe). But be warned - this stuff feels amazing, and you might find yourself taking out a mortgage to get more!
If you don't have babassu oil, there are other butters you can use like shea butter or mango butter. I don't recommend making a body butter from coconut oil as it'll melt when the temperature gets a little warmer, which is something entirely plausible in the winter when everyone goes about cranking up the heat until it's impossible to breathe, like they couldn't put on a sweater or something instead...but I digress. Check out this Newbie Tuesday post on making whipped butters with those butters! Here's the post about choosing your butters.
WHIPPED BABASSU AND KOKUM BUTTER WITH PUMPKIN SEED OIL
48% babassu oil
32% pumpkin seed oil
20% kokum butter
Melt all the ingredients in a double boiler until they are just melted, then pop into the fridge or freezer until they are sludgy and thick. Add up to 1% fragrance or essential oil - check your chosen ingredient's usage suggestions - then whip with a whisk attachment until it is light and fluffy. Put into jars or metal containers and enjoy often!
I love this product. I seriously cannot say enough about how lovely this whipped butter feels on my skin, melting on contact and leaving a less greasy feeling and moisturized feeling. I love this on my feet and elbows to help with areas that get pretty trashed as I tend to wear short sleeved shirts and shoes without socks during the colder months, but it also feels fantastic on my arms and legs. My husband has been using it on his hands before he puts on his gloves for work at night. In short, we use this for everything!
Join me Monday as we enjoy more products using pumpkin seed oil, including a pumpkin seed butter using Lipidthix before we add it to my favourite cuticle balm and a modified version of my favourite emulsified sugar scrub on Tuesday!