Thursday, October 24, 2013

Pumpkin seed oil: Making sugar scrub bars

I've been going on and on about pumpkin seed oil as it's my new favourite oil, one that has a nice balance of linoleic acid and oleic acid, phytosterols, polyphenols, and Vitamin E. It's also an appropriate time of year to be using the seeds from this gourd in our products because it seems like everything, including the water, pumpkin freakin' spice flavoured! As I mentioned in Tuesday's post, I really liked it in my emulsified sugar scrub, so I thought I'd put it into some sugar scrub bars I'm hoping to give away as Christmas presents.

It's not too early to start making Christmas presents. Make your products with long lived oils and keep them in a cool dark place or your fridge before giving, and you'll have loads of time to see if the products morph. More on this topic tomorrow...

I love black cocoa butter, but it can be too soft for a scrub bar at times, so I thought I'd use kokum butter to balance it all out. I decided to use golden shea butter as my third butter because I've had it a while and thought I should probably use it. You can use all cocoa butter or a combination of cocoa butter and another butter for the butter amount. Don't go all mango or all shea butter as they are too soft and will fall apart when you go to use them.

If you've created successful all mango or all shea scrub bars, please write to let me know. Send along your recipe and process - and pictures if you have them - and give me permission to share them with the readers of this blog, and you've got yourself two e-books of your choice! 

20% kokum butter
20% black cocoa butter
20% golden shea butter (use mango or shea butter here)
20% oil (I used pumpkin seed oil)
4% sodium lactate (optional)
4% Ritamulse SCG (or any other emulsifier)
3% cetyl alcohol
2% wax of some kind (beeswax, candellia, soy, etc.)
1% Phenonip

2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
1% fragrance or essential oil
up to 1% Vitamin E

up to 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of product

Weigh all the ingredients in the heated oil phase in a heatproof container, then place into a double boiler. Heat and hold the heated oil phase at 70˚C/158˚F for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the cool down phase. Mix well, add the sugar, then glop into molds and place in the fridge or freezer. (Preferably the freezer). Allow to completely set - up to a few hours, depending on the size of the bars - remove from the freezer and unmold. Allow to come to room temperature before using, about 24 hours.

This is what it looks like with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of product. 

You can see from the picture that things didn't go the way I wanted. So what went wrong? I regularly say that we don't waste supplies because we're learning with every mistake, and I say it here, too. I learned why I don't go over 100 grams of sugar for 100 grams of base - it won't come out of the molds and the product doesn't have the nice slick sheeny look I want from a scrub bar.

I don't multitask well, and I know it, so why did I try making the emulsified sugar scrub (the one from Tuesday) and the sugar scrub bars at the same time? Because I only have so much workshop time, and I wanted to maximize it! (Silly Susan! Play to your strengths!) I mixed up what had to go into what. I ended up putting far too much sugar into the mix - I was thinking we used 146 grams per 100 grams, like the emulsified scrub, instead of 100 grams per 100 grams! It wouldn't come otu of the molds. We had to trash the bars to get them out, and this was the result.

So what can I do here? I can figure out how much sugar I did use because I always keep loads of notes - 800 grams for 500 grams of product - and make another 300 grams of base to add to the container. I'll create a 300 gram batch of the entire base - heated oil and cool down phases - then add it to this Pyrex jug, mix well, then pour it back into the molds.

I did, however, make them pumpkin spice fragranced, so my workshop now smells like Starbucks. Is that a good thing? Yes! (Although I don't like or drink coffee, I like their London Fog tea lattes, but that's not what the workshop smells like today. If I wanted it to smell like Earl Grey, I'd be using more bergamot essential oil!)

Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating...what? I'm not sure yet. Join me to see what we might do next!


Bunny said...

"Remove from the heat and mix in the sugar. After mixing, add the cool down phase. Mix well, add the sugar, then glop into molds..."

You have add the sugar twice. When do I add it? I assume during the cool-down face so there's no risk of it melting?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...


Anonymous said...

Don't we have to add preservative as it will get in contact with water.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Yep, you're right, Rosi! I'm updating it now!

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,can I use coffee instead of sugar for scrub bar?

IEDarla said...

I am getting ready to start working on my Fall products. Being as you mention PUMPKIN, I would like to know What I can use to create a pumpkin fragrance. I am allergic to Fragrance Oils and Synthetic Fragrance. So I found a powdered pumpkin extract I am going to use. Thoughts?