Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Pumpkin seed oil: Creating an emulsified scrub

I thought I'd try using pumpkin seed oil in my favourite emulsified scrub recipe, tweaking just that one ingredient so I could see what it brought to the party. You can use any number of different butters and oils in this product - this is what I wanted to choose today.

I mentioned I wanted to use pumpkin seed oil because it offered loads of wonderful things, like linoleic acid, a fatty acid that will help our skin's barrier repair mechanisms and reduce transepidermal water loss. These features work in an emulsified scrub, too, so I'll use it here.

You can choose all kinds of emulsifiers and all kinds of fatty alcohols. I'm choosing Rita BTMS-225 as my emulsifier and cetyl alcohol as my fatty alcohol as these were the ingredients I used last time and I thought it was wise to stay constant to see what that one ingredient brings to the party.

Lamentably, I only had enough to use 10% pumpkin seed oil, so I went with 30% soy bean oil and 10% hazelnut oil. I chose soy bean oil because it offers all those lovely linoleic acid and hazelnut oil because of that lovely feeling of less greasiness. If you want a less greasy feeling scrub, use more hazelnut or another astringent oil and less soy bean oil.

10% Rita BTMS-225
10% cetyl alcohol
20% cocoa butter
56% oil
1% Phenonip
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance oil
146 grams sugar per 100 grams of base

Weigh all ingredients except the fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45C. Add the fragrance oil, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.

When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like chocolate pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.

If you want to use this for a body scrub, start with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of sugar scrub. You can increase it as high as 200 grams for 100 grams of sugar scrub - it depends upon your taste (I like it really scrubby, so I go for 170 to 200 grams per 100 grams of sugar scrub.) If you are using another exfoliant, you'll really have to play with it to see what you like.

What did I think of it? It's lovely. I have to admit I don't notice a massive difference between this one and one made with soy bean oil, probably because they feel quite similar to me, so I'd go with a higher percentage of pumpkin seed oil next time, closer to the full amount rather than 10%. I admit I'm a massive fan of emulsified scrubs, so it'd have to be a pretty awful product for me not to enjoy it, but this one is especially nice. I think the combination of the slightly greasier feeling oils with the less greasy feeling emulsifier makes for a nice skin feel once I've rinsed it off in the shower.

What can you change if you don't have some of these supplies? Just about everything! The combination of 10% emulsifier and 10% fattty alcohol makes it nice and stiff, but you can use any emulsifiers and fatty alcohols you wish. Polawax and behenyl alcohol, e-wax and cetearyl alcohol, Incroquat BTMS-50 and cetyl esters - try any or all of these in any combination in this recipe.

Check out the links below for lots of variations on this recipe! 

I really liked this in pumpkin spice fragrance oil because it lingered throughout the day in the background instead of being right in my face as a smell. I normally use a lemony smell - my current favourite is Sweet Meyer Lemon fragrance oil (from Brambleberry) - or White Chocolate fragrance oil (from Voyageur Soap & Candle).

Related posts:
Sort of visual tutorial on sugar scrubs! 

Formulating with soy bean oil: Emulsified scrubs
Formulating for dry skin: Emulsified scrubs
Formulating for other skin types: Emulsified scrubs
Experiments in the workshop: Black cocoa butter emulsified scrub
Experiments in the workshop: Golden shea butter emulsified scrub
Experiments in the workshop; Using Ritamulse SCG in an emulsified scrub
Experiments in the workshop: Using behenyl alcohol in an emulsified scrub
Experiments in the workshop: Using behenyl alcohol in an emulsified scrub with Ritamulse SCG

Preservatives in sugar scrubs: Water activity
Quick note on using water in sugar scrubs (don't!)

Facial scrubs - emulsified scrubs and tweaks
Christmas crafting idea: Emulsified scrubs

Join me Thursday when we take a look at using pumpkin seed oil in a sugar scrub bar!


Michele said...

Hi, regarding the solubility of salicylic acid, it is actually soluble in oil (heated to at least 180) as well as alcohol / Propylene Glycol. I use it in a cleansing oil for refining my acne prone skin.

Michele said...

Hi, regarding the solubility of salicylic acid, it is actually soluble in oil (heated to at least 180) as well as alcohol / Propylene Glycol. I use it in a cleansing oil for refining my acne prone skin.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Could we move this discussion to an appropriate thread, otherwise it's going to get lost. Perhaps the post on salicylic acid or the recent post I wrote as a Weekend Wondering? It's going to be lost to people who might really be interested if we keep it here.

Can you provide me with information on its oil solubility because I can't find anything in my resources. I found one thing on Ingredients to Die For and a few blogs, but nowhere else in my texts or references. I can give you link after link that doesn't say it's oil soluble and indicates it's slightly soluble in water and soluble in ethanol. (Perhaps this comes out of the idea of wintergreen oil?)

Please visit either of those posts to put this information! I look forward to seeing what you have as I'm really curious about this!

Diva Soap said...

Hi Susan,
Ever since I saw your post on giveaway, I knew I must try my luck. Unfortunatelly, I was on a trip and when came back I saw all the participants were lucky to get their book! Oh, what a pity, but nevertheless, here I am now,and I want to share my experiments. It was difficult to choose where to post this Emulsified scrub recipe, because you have them so many, but as I used pumpkin oil, here it goes.
This is my facial scrub:
Oil phase:
10% BTMS 50
10% Cetyl
5% PS80
28% Sunflower oil
18% Apricot Kernel oil
16% Pumpkin seed butter (I made his butter using Butter-fix by GF)
10% Macadamia oil

Cool-down phase:
1% Vitamin E
1% Optiphen
1% Lavender e.o

As exfoliants I used: strawberry seeds, ground oatmeal and ground pumpkin seeds.
I was so exccited when received strawberry seeds, but I'm not that impressed with them in scrub. The seeds are too big and you need them a lot to feel the exfoliating effect. On the other side, I really like ground pumpkin seeds.
I choose not to add any butter here, because I don't like the oily feel leaving behind, especially not in my face.
But now, with the summer leaving, I'll try a version with shea only and with PS80 added(and possibly Alkyl Benzoate 12-15) to cut the greainess.
This facial scrub I really like, the skin is soft, well hydrated and there is no oil residue afterwards.

Now, heading to share my other, body sugar scrub!

Thanks for this opportunity to win the terrific prize!