favourite emulsified scrub recipe, tweaking just that one ingredient so I could see what it brought to the party. You can use any number of different butters and oils in this product - this is what I wanted to choose today.
pumpkin seed oil because it offered loads of wonderful things, like linoleic acid, a fatty acid that will help our skin's barrier repair mechanisms and reduce transepidermal water loss. These features work in an emulsified scrub, too, so I'll use it here.
You can choose all kinds of emulsifiers and all kinds of fatty alcohols. I'm choosing Rita BTMS-225 as my emulsifier and cetyl alcohol as my fatty alcohol as these were the ingredients I used last time and I thought it was wise to stay constant to see what that one ingredient brings to the party.
Lamentably, I only had enough to use 10% pumpkin seed oil, so I went with 30% soy bean oil and 10% hazelnut oil. I chose soy bean oil because it offers all those lovely linoleic acid and hazelnut oil because of that lovely feeling of less greasiness. If you want a less greasy feeling scrub, use more hazelnut or another astringent oil and less soy bean oil.
EMULSIFIED SUGAR SCRUB WITH PUMPKIN SEED OIL
10% Rita BTMS-225
10% cetyl alcohol
20% cocoa butter
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance oil
146 grams sugar per 100 grams of base
Weigh all ingredients except the fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45C. Add the fragrance oil, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.
When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like chocolate pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.
If you want to use this for a body scrub, start with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of sugar scrub. You can increase it as high as 200 grams for 100 grams of sugar scrub - it depends upon your taste (I like it really scrubby, so I go for 170 to 200 grams per 100 grams of sugar scrub.) If you are using another exfoliant, you'll really have to play with it to see what you like.
What can you change if you don't have some of these supplies? Just about everything! The combination of 10% emulsifier and 10% fattty alcohol makes it nice and stiff, but you can use any emulsifiers and fatty alcohols you wish. Polawax and behenyl alcohol, e-wax and cetearyl alcohol, Incroquat BTMS-50 and cetyl esters - try any or all of these in any combination in this recipe.
Check out the links below for lots of variations on this recipe!
Sort of visual tutorial on sugar scrubs!
Formulating with soy bean oil: Emulsified scrubs
Formulating for dry skin: Emulsified scrubs
Formulating for other skin types: Emulsified scrubs
Experiments in the workshop: Black cocoa butter emulsified scrub
Experiments in the workshop: Golden shea butter emulsified scrub
Experiments in the workshop; Using Ritamulse SCG in an emulsified scrub
Experiments in the workshop: Using behenyl alcohol in an emulsified scrub
Experiments in the workshop: Using behenyl alcohol in an emulsified scrub with Ritamulse SCG
Preservatives in sugar scrubs: Water activity
Quick note on using water in sugar scrubs (don't!)
Facial scrubs - emulsified scrubs and tweaks
Christmas crafting idea: Emulsified scrubs
Join me Thursday when we take a look at using pumpkin seed oil in a sugar scrub bar!