Monday, October 28, 2013
Oils: Cherry kernel oil
Cherry kernel oil contains a balance of fatty acids with about 46.0% oleic (18:1) acid and 41.6% linoleic (18:2) fatty acid, with the rest found as palmitic acid (16:0) at 8.6% and 2.86 stearic acid (18:0). One study found 9.9% to 13.2% eleostearic acid (C18:3), trace amounts to 1.3% arachadic acid (C20:0), and trace amounts to 0.5% alpha-eicosenoic acid, depending upon the cherry tree variation.
Note that this study didn't indicate it had much eicosenoic acid - a trace - or that much eleostearic or alpha-eicosenoic acid. Variations in our oils is completely normal, which is one of the reasons formulators interested in extreme levels of consistency use things like mineral oil or standardized ingredients. One batch could be higher in oleic acid than another thanks to the climate, the method of extraction, and so on.
This doesn't mean you can use cherry kernel oil as a sunscreen!
What about eicosenoic acid? We've encountered this before as it's also called gadoleic acid. It's found in pomegranate, jojoba, borage, and peanut oils, as well as lard in small amounts. I can't find anything about why we would want to use it on our skin, but it is a neat long chain unsaturated fatty acid we find in these unique oils.
And what about arachadic oil? It's known as C20:0. I can't find much about how it might work with our skin.
It's high in unsaponifiables (phytosterols) at 3.12%, with about 97% of that in the form of ß-sitosterol at 3000 ppm and and the rest mostly as campesterol (about 3%). It's iodine value is 116 and its saponification number is 198.
It is supposed to be high in tocopherols (Vitamin E) and Vitamin A, and I found one reference that indicated it should be 3000 parts per million (ppm). To put this into perspective, cranberry oil and hazelnut oil has about 1400 parts per million, mg per 100 grams, sea buckthorn oil could have as high as 2600 ppm, while rice bran oil has about 400 ppm and sesame oil up to 1000 ppm.
As for Vitamin A, I haven't found anything yet.
Voyageur Soap & Candle has it for $6.95 for 250 ml/8.4 ounces, From Nature With Love has it for $18.00 for 8 ounces, and Gracefruit has it for 3.49 GBP for 250 m/8.4 ouncesl. It's a little more than sweet almond oil or apricot kernel, a little less than macadamia nut oil, a little less than half the price of camellia seed oil, and 46% the price of hazelnut oil.
If you normally use grapeseed oil, this would be a great substitute with its light and dry feeling and one year shelf life. I'm planning on using it as a substitute for macadamia nut and hazelnut oils in upcoming products.
INCI: Prunus avium (sweet cherry) seed oil
One year shelf life.
Specific gravity: 0.9419
Iodine value: 116
Saponification number: 198
Want to know more? Click here for a study on this interesting new seed oil!