Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Gels: Formulating eye gels - some more ideas

If you're following along, we've made a few different versions of eye gels that might be soothing, astringent, anti-inflammatory, and generally awesome for our eyes. Take a look at the previous posts below...

Gels (revised for 2013)
Gels: Formulating an eye gel - version 1
Gels: Formulating an eye gel - version 2
Gels: Formulating an eye gel - making different versions (part 1)

As always, we establish a goal for our product, then we work towards those goals by picking awesome ingredients that do the job we want. For eye gels, I came up with this list of goals:
  • astringent 
  • cooling
  • anti-inflammatory
  • film forming
  • conditioning
  • humectant
  • cosmeceutical
  • moisturizing
  • emollient
  • reducing dark circles
This doesn't mean we have to include everything in the product that helps with every thing on the list, but keep it in mind as you look at the ingredients in your workshop.

Let's say I want a version that offers moisturizing, softening, and hydrating properties. Start with your humectant. I find glycerin a little sticky, which is something we want to avoid, so I'll go with sodium lactate at 2.5% or lower. I like moisturizing, but I don't want to include an oil as I'll have to include an emulsifier, so I think I'll choose some hydrolyzed protein like Cromoist or hydrolyzed oat protein at 2%. As well, I think I'll include a cationic polymer like polyquat 7 to offer conditioning and moisturizing at 2%. And maybe I'll add a little chamomile for soothing. I could go with 0.5% powdered chamomile extract dissolved in one of the other liquid ingredients or up to 10% chamomile hydrosol to make the gel thinner.

93% pre-made gel
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice
2.5% sodium lactate
2% polyquat 7
0.5% powdered chamomile extract

Dissolve the powdered chamomile extract in one of the other liquids. Mix well, then add all the ingredients in the gel. Mix well. Package. Rejoice.

You could include glycerin instead of sodium lactate and any other cationic polymer in place of the polyquat 7 and make a completely different feeling product.

As I've mentioned in the past, I've received quite a few exciting extracts from the Formulator Sample Shop (and I don't get paid for saying anything nice about them!), so I could use a few of those to accompish some of my goals. I'm getting good feedback from my testers about using the dark eye circle complex in my eye gel at 5%, so I'll use that to accomplish the goal of reducing dark circles. (As if that wasn't obvious, eh?)

I think I'll use another humectant in this product, but I also want to use a cationic polymer, so let's go with honeyquat at 2% again. (I like that this product is a two-for-one with being a cationic polymer and humectant in one!) I'd like to include an anti-inflammatory, so let's use 5% water soluble liquid green tea extract or 0.5% powdered green tea extract in our product to accomplish that goal. Green tea extract also contains caffeine, which is showing good results in reducing under eye circles, so that's another two for one ingredient! Woo! We love those! I think I'd like some witch hazel at 5% in here for soothing and cooling. (Normally I'd use peppermint essential oil for cooling, but we don't want that near our eyes!) Finally, I think I'm going to add some hydrolyzed protein to offer film forming.

So what do we have? (This could sound quite nice as a honey & green tea eye gel.)

5% witch hazel
0.5% powdered green tea extract
5% dark eye circle complex
2% honeyquat
2% hydrolyzed oat protein

Dissolve the powdered chamomile extract in one of the other liquids. Mix well, then add all the ingredients in the gel. Mix well. Package. Rejoice.

As you can see from these posts, you can put anything that won't bother your eyes in an eye gel, or even an eye cream. The only thing you have to ensure in a gel is that your ingredients are water soluble and your gel can handle whatever levels of electrolytes you put into it (for instance, salts found in aloe vera or other extracts). 

Have fun formulating! I can't wait to see what you come up with, and I encourage you to send me photos and pictures! 

1 comment:

Chris said...

I want to try this but I am concerned about the 25% alcohol my green tea extract was extracted in. Do you think that it will bother our eyes?