Thursday, October 10, 2013

Gels: Formulating an eye gel - version 2

We took a look at making an eye gel yesterday, so let's try another version today. We can tweak this recipe as we wish, so if you don't have the ingredients I mention, feel free to try ingredients you have in your workshop that fulfill the requirements you have for your product. If you don't have under eye circles, then don't worry about including that ingredient. If you need more moisturizing, feel free to add something that might work for that purpose. As long as your ingredients are safe to use around your eyes - check the data sheets or your supplier for that information - you can add it to the eye gel!

I thought I'd try a few other ingredients in version 2, but I wanted to keep the same goals of ingredients that offer anti-inflammatory properties, reduce the look of dark circles, and offer moisturizing and/or hydrating properties. I also wanted ingredients that wouldn't make the product change colour much.

The first ingredient I chose was PEG-7 olivate, a water soluble ester that offers a light feeling moisturizer and film former. You can use any water soluble oil here. (You can't use an oil in this product without an emulsifier, and I didn't want to use an emulsifier, so we're using the water soluble version of olive oil here.) I really like water soluble shea oil as well, but I thought olive oil would feel lighter, plus it was easier to find on my workbench.

Yep, that's how I use ingredients sometimes, which is part of knowing what thing does what. I had the bottle of PEG-7 olivate out for body wash, and rather than going through one of three boxes to find another water soluble oil, this was easiest. 

I chose to use keratin hydrolysate as my film former and moisturizer.* It's a hydrolyzed protein that has a higher molecular weight so it film forms instead of penetrating. I want this to help me with moisturizing. If you don't have this, you can use any of the hydrolyzed proteins, like oat or wheat or soy or silk or an of them, that you might have in your workshop. Consider using something like Phytokeratin, if you have it.

I thought I'd try this ingredient called Moisture Plex from the Formulator Sample Shop*, which is a combination of humectants and cationic polymers to add lovely moisturizing, film forming, and conditioning to the product. (INCI: Glycerin & Water & Sodium PCA & Urea & Trehalose & Polyquaternium-51 & Sodium Hyaluronate).

Humectants are a formulator's best friend because they offer so much moisturizing for such a small amount of money and small amount of usage. I love glycerin, which can feel a bit sticky, and I love sodium lactate and sodium PCA, as they all draw moisture from the atmosphere to our skin to offer moisturizing. Sodium lactate can be exfoliating and sun sensitizing at over 3%, so try to keep your product at 2.9% or lower. Having said that, there's nothing wrong with some exfoliating and sun sensitizing if you're not going into the sun and plan to wash it off before you start your day, so consider using it at the higher amounts after you've tried it at the lower amount.

If you don't have this ingredient, feel free to add something like honeyquat or polyquat 7 as your cationic polymer, and add other humectants. I suggest something like 1% glycerin, 1% to 2% sodium lactate or sodium PCA, with 0.5% polyquat 44 or up to 2% polyquat 7 or up to 3% honeyquat. I'm not saying this will replace the Moisture Plex ingredient, but it'll give you those qualities we want, which is to draw moisture to our skin and condition.

Finally, I'm adding water soluble eucalyptus extract as my anti-inflammatory ingredient at 5%*. I have a whole host of powdered and water soluble extracts available to me, but most are coloured some interesting colour, and I really wanted to use this extract to keep the product fairly clear. This is not eucalptyus essential oil, but the liquid extract of the things that are water soluble about this plant. You can't use essential oil here for a number of reasons - we don't have an emulsifier in it being quite important, but the mere idea of having camphor-y eucalyptus under our eyes makes mine water!

UNDER EYE GEL #2
80% gel
5% PEG-7 olivate
5% keratin hydrolysate
5% Moisture Plex
5% eucalyptus extract

Make the gel from this recipe found on this post.

Weigh all ingredients, add the gel, and mix well. Yeah, that's pretty much it, which is why you must use distilled water! You'll notice I put my preservative at the maximum amount into the gel making part of the project. This will preserve my product enough, not to worry. If you do worry, don't add the preservative to the gel, but add it at 0.5% to 2% - whatever the recommended amount might be - into the actual eye gel recipe.

Wanda notes that she really loved the feel of this eye gel - I'm guessing the cationic polymers and oil had something to do with it - but she liked the way eye gel #1 worked with her dark circles. As I mentioned yesterday, Cibele noted that she liked the light feeling and non-stickiness of this recipe. My mom said she felt it got a little thicker as time went on and would like it a bit thinner, so you could add some distilled water, aloe vera, hydrosols, or other liquid ingredients to get a thinner product. If you do this, don't forget to compensate with more preservative.

And whatever you do, don't make more than a 100 gram batch of these products. I managed to make ten small containers with 80 grams of product and have some left over, so you want to stay small!

Feel free to combine these recipes and use all or none of the ingredients I've used in the last two days. Oh heck, let's do some experimenting tomorrow and make a few more eye gels!

Related posts:
Cosmeceutical section of the blog
Extracts section of the blog

Experiments in the workshop: Making an eye cream - part 1
Experiments in the workshop: Making an eye cream - part 2
Experiments in the workshop: Making an eye cream - part 3
Making an eye cream: Tweaking it with other emulsifiers
Making an eye cream: Using other oils

Making an anhydrous eye gel with cera bellina

*Note: As I've mentioned before, I've been sent a bunch of free ingredients by the Formulator Sample Shop and I've been playing with them in my products. Any opinions expressed here are my own and I have not been compensated in any way to try the ingredients or share my opinion with you, other than the free ingredients. If I don't like something, I'll tell you. If I do like it, I'll tell you. Either way, my only affiliation with this company is that they have sent me some free things. I get no compensation if you shop with them. 

1 comment:

Bunny said...

Susan, can I ask what weight scale you are always using in these pictures? It's a good size and looks nice and sturdy!