Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Experiments in the workshop: Making a body wash for really oily skin - part two

If you joined us yesterday, you saw me pondering ingredients I might like to use to create a body wash for really oily skin. Today, let's create a recipe using those ingredients I liked.

12% cocamidopropyl betaine
18% DLS mild
10% C14-16 olefin sulfonate
10% aloe vera liquid
10% peppermint hydrosol
11% witch hazel
4% glycerin
2% multigrain complex or hydrolyzed protein

9% water (at around 45˚C)
2.5% niacinamide
2.5% sebum control complex
2.5% cationic polymers - 1.5% polyquat 7 and 1% honeyquat
1% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall plus
0.5% powdered willow bark

1% fragrance or essential oil
up to 3.5% thickener, like Crothix or Ritathix

This recipe adds up to 100%, but your recipe might not as you include and remove things from it. Increase or decrease the 9% water amount in the cool down phase when you add or remove ingredients. As a secondary note, the water is in the cool down phase to dissolve my powdered extracts. If you aren't using any, feel free to move it to the heated water phase. Do not move any other ingredients into the heated water phase from the cool down phase. 

Weigh all the heated water phase ingredients together into a heatproof container. Weigh this container, including the container, and write this number down. Place the container in a double boiler. Heat until it reaches 70˚C, then hold that for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, and weigh the container. Compensate for the loss of water by adding some hot water to the product. Mix well with a fork or spoon, but not too well as we don't want tons of bubbles, then allow to cool to 45˚C.

I recommend using a container bigger than what you need to allow you to mix without slopping things all over the place! It's a pain to get that foaming and lathering stuff off your workspace countertop and you're wasting products!

Add your cool down ingredients. I like to put the water with the powdered ingredients and mix well, then add it to the product.

When the product reaches room temperature, add the fragrance or essential oil and mix well. Check the viscosity, and if you want it thicker, add Crothix or another liquid thickener at 0.5% at a time. Add, mix, add, mix, and so on. (I'll be writing more about thickening later this week!)

When it comes to packaging this product, you can use a tottle or disc cap bottle, but I've started using pump bottles because I can thicken it less that way! Don't use a pump bottle if you use the full 3.5% Crothix!

Join me Thursday to take a look at thickening our products with Crothix and Ritathix DOE.


Anonymous said...

Do you think this would work for normal skin if we leave out the niacinamide, sebum control complex, witch hazel and white willow bark?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Definitely! I have many other body washes on the blog - find them in the recipes other than hair care products made with surfactants section of the blog, or do a search!