In this post, Workshop!, Irina asks: I have read that BTMS cannot be used with proteins as it destroys proteins. What are you thoughts about this, is this true? Also, have you ever worked with peptides? Peptides said to be very fragile and do not like oils, how do you handle them?
It depends which ones you're talking about when it comes to peptides. We can get them in many different forms. If you're talking about copper peptides, you can use those at 2% in the cool down phase in products with a water phase as they're water soluble. There are ingredients we can buy that are called peptides that are derivatives of things like silk proteins, which might be what you mean? If it is, then yes, I've used silk peptides before.
BTMS-50 or BTMS-225 with other components in it, like cetyl or cetearyl alcohols. Behentrimonium methosulfate is what we call a cationic quaternary compound, meaning it is a positively charged thing that will adsorb to our hair strand to make our hair feel conditioned. Our hair is negatively charged, so putting a positively charged thing on our hair will cause an attraction, and it will stick to our hair strand, making it feel lubricated and moisturized.
I'm trying to think of what could ruin proteins from a cationic quaternary compound. Is it the charge? I don't think so because I found a load of information that would demonstrate that a positive charge wont' ruin a protein. Proteins can be turned into cationic polymers themselves. For instance, page 381 of the Barel Handbook (3rd edition) notes that proteins can be turned into things like Hydroxypropyl trimonium–hydrolyzed collagen or hydroxypropyl trimonium–hydrolyzed wheat protein, so a positive charge won't destroy a protein when it's converted into a positive charge! As well, you can find positively charged or cationic proteins.
Proteins can be positively, negatively, or neutrally charged with a positive charge in acidic pH levels. (this reference and this one at Wikipedia, but I found tons more if you want me to post them here). Would this translate to a protein being in an acidic environment in a conditioner? I'm not sure, but you'd think that it would be a good thing for a positively charged protein in a pH of 6 or lower to be in a positively charged conditioner with a pH of 6 or lower.
data sheet for Incroquat BTMS-50.)
In doing my searches, I came upon the idea that protein is bad for our hair and that we can get over protein-ed. I'm going to do more work on this topic, but I haven't been able to find any really good studies on the topic. If you have some studies or some really good, reliable information that isn't just someone's opinion, please send it along. Nothing against opinions, but I would like to have some backing for it.
Just curious...where did you read this? Can you send me a link?
In this post on castor oil, Stacy asks: I hope I don't sound crazy by asking this, but is there any danger whatsoever using Castor Oil in massage cream/oil mixtures? I assume that the pressing process eliminates any chance of unsafe traces of ricin the oil, but the thought is crossing my mind. Thanks for your time.
You don't sound crazy. It's something to think about. But it's fine: Castor oil is safe.
As a note, castor seeds can kill pretty easily. It takes 6 to 20 to kill a human and up to 80 to kill a duck. Which goes to show you that these seeds are pretty deadly and ducks are fairly evil creatures. I mean, why doesn't it sound like its quack has an echo? And why do they turn every slightly large puddle into a pond? It's clear it's not a pond, ducks! Okay, I admit, I have issues with ducks...
CREATING A WATERLESS CLEANSER
In Formulating with oils: A body butter, Catherine writes, I had the same problem your husband has with dry itchy legs, I went to the dermatologist to ask what was going on and she said its because the water here (I'm currently living in France) is high in calcium and I have atopic skin. She recommended a soapless shower oil for me to use and it completely fixed up my dry itchy legs and arms. If you could create a recipe for a soapless soap that would be awesome. I've been trying to find one online and the most I can figure out is that it's an oil base with an emollient that helps to clean your skin and not leave your skin greasy. You should give it a try I'm sure it would be a good product for your husband to try out.
Are you talking about something like Spectro-Jel? I've created a duplicate for it in this post, although I'd definitely substitute the polysorbate 20 with some PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil! The solublizer works to be the cleanser as it's a surfactant and can do some light cleansing. Or you could make something like this Cetaphil duplicate. If you can send me a few examples with the full ingredient list, I could try to figure something out.
I'm not duplicating by request again, but I like the idea of looking at a product and analyzing it.
In this post Glycerin is water soluble, Artemis re-visited the blog and shared a recipe she made for a rinse-off oil cleanser!
I eventually managed to find a supplier of polyglyceryl-4 oleate and, after some experimentation, came up with the following recipe:
40% Soybean oil
20% Hazelnut oil
15% Apricot kernel oil
10% Jojoba oil
1% Vitamin E
1% Lavender essential oil
1% Rosemary essential oil
12% Polyglyceryl-4 oleate
I know that this is quite a lot of polyglyceryl-4 oleate to use, but I didn't want to risk any trace of the cleanser being left on my face. Personally, I have found it an absolute joy to use and it leaves my skin feeling fantastic- never dried out, but it doesn't become too greasy again quickly either. I hope you enjoy it too!
Thanks, Artemis! It looks great, filled with all my favourite oils. If you want to make this recipe, you'll have to find the polyglyceryl-4-oleate or try another solubilizer. Also, castor oil can be a great addition to an oil based product, so you, the readers at home, could try that in place of some of the oil.
Join me next week as we enjoy more Weekend Wonderings based on your comments. In the meantime, stay tuned for my final thoughts on testing out the PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and some fun experimenting with a new thickener for surfactants, Ritathix, along with a little chemistry on Thursday!